JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

Well either axle I can make it happen so that's no biggie. Main thing is the bolt pattern. I've got an 87 k5 on 1 tons so I'd love to be able to just swap tires between the two and rollers. I could just run spacer adapters on the Ford 1 tons but I'd rather not.

Something I've toss around was running just adapters on the rear wheels after a while I'll cut and plate the bottom of a 14 bolt using one of those fancy shave kits. I know if I had a bolt in sterling rear for a JK I could resell it it for $1k Bc most people
Don't have welding capabilities and the JK crowd appeals to that.


I'm cutting the frame in front of the motor mounts, I've done a solid works drawing of the the frame how I want it to be. I'm moving the steering box forward 4 inches, making it so I've got 3" more of uptravel clearance for my front axle, and have a better approach angle.

4" up front and not sure yet on the rear. Might stay stock till I double triangulate the rear but I could do 6" and not comp cut it



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When are you looking to do this? I'm going to be dumping my shaved 14 bolt out of my JKU this winter in favor of something that has a centered pinion. With how low my setup is the offset pinion ends up running into the gas tank at full bump on the right rear tire. It's already got tone rings, ARB, 5.38's, truss with 3 link mount and disk brakes with Cadillac calipers with built in parking brake.

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Next few months really, you got a dollar amount you would entertain? It might be November or December before I'm ready to do it.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Next few months really, you got a dollar amount you would entertain? It might be November or December before I'm ready to do it.
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Let me think about it a little bit. I'll look at the receipts and let you know. Since you are stretching you could probably even use my LCA mounts and lower coil over mounts. They are pretty much level with the axle tube and the lower CO mount is actually on the top of the lower control arm mount. It's a tight package but it works.
 
ABadJeeper said:
Let me think about it a little bit. I'll look at the receipts and let you know. Since you are stretching you could probably even use my LCA mounts and lower coil over mounts. They are pretty much level with the axle tube and the lower CO mount is actually on the top of the lower control arm mount. It's a tight package but it works.
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Yeah, I was goin to outboard, double triangulated rear, run ORIs on top of the axle. Trailing arms would be cool but I would have no clue wtf Id be doing out back lol. Just let me know, not in a huge rush but near future I'll be looking to purchase.
 
Yeah I totally understand dude, the more labored intensive part of this build is gonna be up front. I've found a few front axles but I'm holding out a little longer till I get my k5 back on the road. Which hopefully that'll be this month and start tearing down the jeep.


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Well screw it im not gonna have two build threads on 1 forum so I've got this 1987 k5 jimmy I've had since November 2006.

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Day I bought it

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Faded ass paint and in my garage.

Well in 2010 before, I went into the army, I finally started working on it. I've been gathering parts for the last 5 years, I've turned it into a 4spd/205 combo with a hydro clutch. It's on a set of 3/4 tons with a full floater 14 bolt rear with disc. I've got a 60 for the front, doing a simple shackle flip and 56" rear springs out back and slider boxes up front and 52" springs. Plan on just moving the front hangers forward.



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Right now the engine is on a stand, I converted it to a Hyd roller with a 5.7 vortec cam, vortec fuel pump, 14 psi FPR spring, edelbrock TBI intake, injector pod spacer, and some headers. Not hoping for a crap ton of power but considering this engine has 78k original miles, factory lifters looked pretty much brand new, on it why not. If it blows and the heads are good I'll build a stump pulling 383 out if it. Or I'll just put a 5.3 in it. Keeping the TBI injection, changed the fuel pump and injectors and it fired up just fine after sitting for 9 years.
 
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My birthday was last week and I've got some ECGS gift certificates. Debating on ordering a lock rite for the k5's 60 front and a Barnes 4wd rear shave cover. Rear is gonna stay open till I decide if I want to regear or not, and either way it'll get a ARB. Up front I plan on running hydro assist ram.

Ordered my .375 wall tie rod last night. Literally the last things I need to buy for the k5 d60 are chromoly shafts with some good u-joints. Already have some Yukon hardcore hubs. Really don't know which joints I want to go with. Don't plan on running bigger than 43sx on the k5, I'm not a throttle jockey, and I feel like CTMs are just way over kill.

Got some 3/4 brake calipers brackets from lugnut4x4 for the k5's 60 also so I can just run these 38.5s off the jeep for a while. I know I'll never get my money out of them and they are a decent size for the k5. I'll probably order the wheels next month.
 
For a driveshaft that makes sense but not sure how that affects a front axleshaft joint


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As long as you remember to unlock the hubs, you'll be fine. If they are not turning, they are not wearing.
 
Loganwayne said:
I was told any ujoint that didn't have needle bearings will burn up driving on the road. I'd call east coast gear and ask them about it.

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Like Matt said, if he has his hubs unlocked they u joints wouldn't be moving. So they should be fine and last a pretty good while, unless he fogets to unlock them a time or two
 
Well, got the Shackle flip and 56" rear springs in, I'll start on the front tonight with swapping the 52s and the 60 in. Gotta still get rotors, studs and calipers for the 60, converting it to 3/4 ton brakes.

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Also I need to strip the valve covers, oil pan, and accessory drive brackets so I can paint them. Also need to get new wires, cap, rotor, plugs, and I want to go ahead and replace a few sensors. So it might be end if the month before the engine is together again and back in.

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And with the storm shipping got screwed up a little bit for me so I'm still waiting on a few gaskets I had to order.
 
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Started mocking up the springs and 60 for the front of the k5. I really want to run a slider shackle up front instead of a traditional shackle just to try it out since it's kinda new and not too common. Also got a new oilpump in yesterday. Figured why not since the engine is still out. Still had the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bores so why not.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
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Started mocking up the springs and 60 for the front of the k5. I really want to run a slider shackle up front instead of a traditional shackle just to try it out since it's kinda new and not too common. Also got a new oilpump in yesterday. Figured why not since the engine is still out. Still had the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder bores so why not.
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Looks good man. What exactly is the difference in a slider shackle? Is that supposed to help in some way? Because I've never heard of it before
 
JWebbie2 said:
Looks good man. What exactly is the difference in a slider shackle? Is that supposed to help in some way? Because I've never heard of it before
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This is a SW drawing I made for the k5. I bolt pattern is right but is angled wrong. It helps the dramatic pinion angle change when you use a long shackle on a k5. And also provides more lateral stability. Instead of the frame to shackle bushing is eliminated so that deflection from the bushing is gone.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
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This is a SW drawing I made for the k5. I bolt pattern is right but is angled wrong. It helps the dramatic pinion angle change when you use a long shackle on a k5. And also provides more lateral stability. Instead of the frame to shackle bushing is eliminated so that deflection from the bushing is gone.
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Looks pretty cool. Hopefully it works out good for ya!
 
Yeah me too. I've seen them through forums and YouTube stuff but I figured if it doesn't work out all that great. I'll just link it really quick like


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Can't go wrong with linking it!

But I might have to pick your brain a little about your JK. I'm thinking about doing the TJ gas tank swap with mine since the Sterling I'm putting in is gonna be hitting the stock tank lol
 
Before I decided to move back and go to school in NC, I was thinking of getting my K5 shipped out to Cali where I was. Wanted to chop about 18" out of the center of it, and build a tube chassis to sit the body back on, linked and fabricated 9" or something for axles. But now it's gonna be the redneck mobile and the jeep will get some fun shit next year


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Oh and yeah any questions about the tank swap just let me know. It's not that hard and could be done to where you don't raise the rear floor like I did. But you're gonna lose the little cubbie hole thing. And the 2 last crossmembers both have to be modified in order to fit the tank.


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iwaxmyjimmy said:
Oh and yeah any questions about the tank swap just let me know. It's not that hard and could be done to where you don't raise the rear floor like I did. But you're gonna lose the little cubbie hole thing. And the 2 last crossmembers both have to be modified in order to fit the tank.


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Awesome! Thanks man! But I'll probably raise it a little bit because the pumpkin on that Sterling is pretty big lol. But I'll definitely be pming you here soon when I get the tank and gas pump. What else do I need for it?
 
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