JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

Got more done, hopefully finishing up the shock hoops today. Then I’ve got the dash all apart and the cluster out to fix the printed circuit board so my gauges all work again.

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Finally got around to welding the passenger side in. Need to pick up some more 1.75x.120 wall to do the front shock hoops.

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Got some more done, now need to figure out how I want to mount my spare.

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killer blazer, makes me miss my 88' K5 but the frame gave up on me.

so I need some info on your Trans and transfer case setup. (I got the same setup in my yj from my K5) is your case a figure 8 and what clocking plate did you use and what cv flanges are you using?
 
killer blazer, makes me miss my 88' K5 but the frame gave up on me.

so I need some info on your Trans and transfer case setup. (I got the same setup in my yj from my K5) is your case a figure 8 and what clocking plate did you use and what cv flanges are you using?

Thanks, it’s really a work in progress and needs a lot of work. But the clocking plate I bought 9 years ago from a guy off pirate, I got the rear output flange from WFO Concepts. The front I used the correct flange adapter on the f250 front double cardan shaft when I rebuilt it to fit the factory 30 spline flange on this ‘79-‘84 np205. Before ‘79 figure 8 cases had a 10 spline front output.
 
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Got the cluster back together and working.... oil pressure gauge worked for 2 days then quit. So I’ll have to pull it back out and figure out wtf.

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I’m hopefully getting some more tube to build a traction bar, do my crossover rear for the rear hoop, and build the front shock hoops soon. I’ve been waiting on a quote the whole damn month. I’ve got another contact I’m going to go with to get my stuff even though it’s slightly more expensive.


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Got a little more done, ran my first beads with my roller. Definitely see where I need to modify it and stiffen it up. I want to add a flat bottom to it so when putting smaller work pieces in it, they won’t distort as bad. And want to build a wheel instead of having a crank handle for it. But I can’t wait to play with it more.
 
I’ve been pretty bored piddling around the garage here and there. Got the frame plate and steering brace on yesterday afternoon. Finally got materials ordered, from a different place so no clue when it’ll here. Gonna work on the winch plate and get that fitted up better and hopefully installed. But here are more progress pictures.

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Oh and I still haven’t gotten some hardware to mount the sheetmetal covers for the cable shifter
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On my old K5 I made massive washers for the bolts to help spread the load on the frame.

The frame repair/reenforcement kits are so cheap now it was kind of a no brainer.
 
Got the caddy calipers swapped on, still gotta do the parking brake portion, I’ve got I think everything for it. Also mocked up the truss, need to cut and form the piece to tie the pinion guard to the truss.

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Got some 6” wide flat bar to box the middle of the frame and gusset the sliders. Will be focusing on building a few crossmembers and belly pan of the k5. It needs a traction bar as well.

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Also got a sheet of aluminum to make inner fenders and maybe a few other things. I’ve never worked with aluminum and don’t have anyway to weld it but a few ways to form it and cut it.

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Well it was nearing that time of needing new tires. The 38.5s are down to the wear bars almost, but I still want to groove them and run them on something or another. But bought a set of 39.5/15-17s and I’ve been debating on getting some beadlock rings weld on this new set of 17x9s I picked up. But I won’t be pushing the k5 that hard I feel like. However the Jeep can also wear these shoes, so I’m debating on saving this set of wheels for some BFG KR3s or something. If you’re gonna have the axles for it and they come up cheap? Why the not? Really in need to finish my damn degree once the sky stops falling so don’t have to build the Jeep to drive to the trails.

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Oh and 5.38 gears are ordered for the JKs 1 tons. But here is the list and I’m sure $$$$ have changed

The JK needs-

1350 tcase front flange $95
1350 tcase rear flange $95
D60 1410 yoke $100
14 bolt 1410 yoke $100
1410 slip yokes $140
F250 driveshafts $350

Shock hoop DOM-$80
Air bumps $450

Front
steering links $200
Ram $220
Coilover springs- $200
Install kit-200
1550 stock shafts $400/chromoly $1500
Locker-$600
Dodge ABS sensors-

Rear
Install kit-150
Shocks- $260
Pinion guard $80
Locker-1100
Diff cover-$140
ABS tone rings-https://www.vksfab.com/product/tone-rings/


Might have to cut apart a pitman arm and build my own double sheer setup. To get the correct throw with these JHF steering arms. Also gonna try using a artec or whoever’s rear sensor brackets. Mainly Bc it’ll really chap some asses if I keep the lights off in the dash. There are a hunch of older local CJ guys that get butthurt over stuff I do. They haven’t seen the tires yet so I was gonna troll them at our next club get together. Honestly, I wish they could see some of the stuff guys up here build because they might finally understand when I tell them I don’t know shut, but they are fucking up worse than Tom Brady kissing his son on the mouth.
 
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Here was my few hours of fun today. I need to get the correct valve Stems or just take a step bit to the holes and make these work. But got the tires on the wheels, just need to enlarge the valve stem holes to accept the ones I bought. Then add my BBs and bolt them on the k5 for now.

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Bolted them on the other day.
 
So yesterday on a beer run, the k5 cut off on me.... y’all have no idea the range of emotions when that big asshole cuts off in the middle of a curve on Davenport farm. Thank God I just stabbed the clutch in and coasted. Which I was surprised how quiet this big girl is coasting at 20 mph into the walk-all-over-you parking lot. Well whenever I have car trouble I call my mom, just to kinda give her an idea of where I’m at, and a heads up. Well then I texted two buddies to atleast have someone on stand by Incase I needed a lift to the casa to grab a few things.

Literally have another whole fuel pump setup, and basically a mini shop in the garage a few miles down the road. Well I had no tools and I wasn’t hearing the fuel pump kick on, but I was sure I had over a half tank of fuel. Even slapping the sides of the tank you could hear fuel inside, plus sometimes till jar a fuel pump enough to get it working again. But you can’t do it with your purse, you gotta man hand that shit.

Well I realize I have not damn thing in the k5 for tools, but I’m doing wiggle test and I’ve had issues with a terminal being loose. And I reckon some pothole that I hit while squeezing a lemon must have jarred it loose. Well about the time I figure this, out I didn’t make it back to the parking lot so I’m in the middle of the driveway, these cars are trying to get around. I’ve got both doors open, and these people are like wtf this guy doing. I’m in the passenger seat, feet hanging out the door, and hit the key to start it up.

Oh it was it’s granny gear so now I’m trying to get in the driverseat because we are off to the races. I can’t stop laughing, these people are looking at me like I’ve got a dick on my forehead. I still love this piece of shit because of the sounds it makes when I crack the throttle, even if it’s very eventful at times. Meanwhile it will definitely start going forward in granny gear high range. I swapped a manual transmission into it because man things, but it’s still wired for an auto, ie it doesn’t have a neutral safety switch. That rockauto starter is a mother fucking hoss though, pretty sure it’s a new Delco one, lol.

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Picture because someone sent them after they saw me in town. Had a buddy ask last night what do I daily, I slapped the fender and smiled like a retard.
 
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Started seeing how I could make this all functional and work like I want it to. The evaporator is definitely in the way of my original idea. The more I look at it the more I want to just hold off till I do the cage since those are going through the fire wall into the A pillar down tubes. I threw the start of grill guard up there just to get and idea.

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This is about where I can clear a shock on everything on both sides. I’ll definitely have to make the mounts out of plate, then brace them, mounting them on this tube. I’ll do a few frame tie ins to strengthen it as well.
 
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Got some more cut and notched. But I’ve still got a bunch left and I need another stick of tubing to do the grill guard portion.
 
Well since I’m one of the poors and gotta make some coin before I can refill my bottle, I started tearing down the stupid duty 60 for the front of the JK.

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Hopefully I can make some more progress tomorrow. Wednesday I’ll go get my bottle refilled and jump back on my traction bar project for the k5. Also got 2 more sticks of 1.75x.120 DOM on the way. One is for the JK, the other to finish up the front grill hoop and front shock hoops for the k5.
 
So helped a friend with his Tacoma replacing CV shaft boots. Well we had to make a parts store run to Farmville. Before I even get to spaight seed farm road on the old Farmville highway some Richard head is going 48mph. So I push in the clutch go to drop it into 3rd........ 3rd?????? 3rd!!!! Eric is looking at me like why you touching my leg with the shifter. Luckily it goes back into 4th I just get quiet and keep rolling on the down the road thinking this just turned into an adventure.

Well get to Main Street luckily no cars behind us and I didn’t have to fully stop so feathering the clutch I get us around the corner and that 5.3 has the torque to bring the k5 up from 10mph in 4th gear on 39.5 tires, that weigh around 120lbs each. Gotta love those 5.38 gears. Anyway 3rd and reverse are currently missing and unaccounted for. 1st and 2nd are still there, Eric had to push the k5 backwards as I steered so we could get out of the Napa parking lot in Farmville.

Hopefully I can do the billavista sm465 fix before having to drill the spot welds out holding the trans tunnel cover and pulling the top plate. That 3rd gear shift typically takes a beating so I’m not really surprised.
 
You have my number and I’m around more now. Call if you need help. I usually keep my truck full of junk, uhhh, tools. :D

I appreciate it. It’s normally reliable, lately I think it’s been mad I’ve been working on other stuff.
 
Billavista for the win, Roll pins had backed out a good bit, gonna try and open them up a little so they will stay in place better. Still need to go pull that drivetrain out of a truck and rebuild this other 205 with 32 spline input and 32 spline front output (its a pre 79 case so has a 10 spline front). So when I ever can afford to get a 1st gen GM nv4500, it should bolt right up. And hoping I won’t have to mess with driveshafts. They should have enough extra left on the splines for be fine.
 
Back to a strong maybe for attending the thing, got to order some front frame plates before I can finish doing the front hoops. Been waiting on dude to release them, this is the ones I’ll be using.

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But shifter is back to shifting, got a whole laundry list of stuff I’m starting this morning. Me double checking fuel pump wiring to make sure it was the pump the other week, I didn’t put the PCM back. So during me bullshitting the other day after fixing the shifter, PCM fell over and yanked a terminal out of for fuel pump, so I’ll be fixing that this morning, along figuring out a better way to mount the PCM. Gotta take the dash off because I need to replace the speedo cable. I broke because the was too close to the exhaust. Took longer than expected. Also trying a 3rd oil pressure sending unit hoping this works so all my gauges will be working and it won’t be as white trash. Been looking at new dash pads because mine is a ratty piece of shit, but my god is they are proud of the nice ones. That’s gonna have to wait.

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Also got an upper radiator hose that wasn’t secure and got into a tensioner and needs to be replaced before the trip. Wasn’t leaking been keeping hose and coolant in the truck with the tools to change it if it left me stranded. But I don’t need to keep playing with fire. I need to pick up another driverside hub seal, this ones leaking again. I swear oreilly’s seals ain’t with a shit, I’m better off ordering from ECGS.

I’ve got the parking brake hardware and the factory drum parking brake cables off a set of 1 tons I picked up years ago. I’m gonna attempt to connect them to the factory pedal. Figure it would be pretty cool and keep stuff out of the shifter area. The t-case shifters take up a lot of room.

In order for me to raise the tcase anymore I’ve got to cut the floor. Which in cool with. I’ve got some sheet metal to go back over it. But this is also so I can just finally have a decent crossmember. I’ve got enough 1.75 DOM I think I can come up with something that should strengthen it up and help strength the chassis as well. I really want to box the frame rails, but I don’t really see that happening in time for the 25-26 weekend. Front hoops and inner fenders are my main focus. Really need to figure out a different routing of my Y pipe because that is limiting me to 4” of uptravel on the passenger side, I can redo that later And the way I’m doing the shock mounts I think I’ll be able to cut it out and just move the upper mount. Still need to pick up tubing flanges or decided on the inner locking ones.

I’ve wrapped these springs a little, but I think I’ll have enough adjustment in them that when or if I do put new springs in there, I’ll be able to make the traction bars work.

This is the type I’m gonna try out. Hopefully works, lol.
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I could clock the transfercase up further but would have to pull it off and cut more floor. Top plate of the trans is a 1/2 from the top of the trans tunnel. Which is about as close as I want to get.
 
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