I think I need a bigger winch and a better arborist

jeepinmatt

..l.
Joined
Mar 24, 2005
Location
Stanley, NC
It’s about time to add on to our house, and there’s a tree in the way. I want to keep it, but don’t want to do anything weird to the house shape and design as a result. The wife is fine with cutting it down. It has grown tremendously in the 6 years we’ve been here, leans slightly away from the house, and is the only decent sized tree on that side of the house, so I’d really like to keep it for the shade and character. In order to do that, I need to move it. It’s an oak, either scarlet or red I think. It’s about 8-9” diameter at chest height, 12-13” at the base, the crown is in the neighborhood of 15ft, and it has a height of about 40-50ft. The good news is that I only want to move it ~15-20ft, in a straight line, on basically level ground (maybe 1-2ft of rise over 20ft). See red circles in pics here:

Tree1.jpg

Tree2.jpg


I plan to buy a mini-mid excavator and dig my own basement, so I’ll have the ability to dig a nice hole/trench/transportation channel/etc. But how far away do I need to dig, and how deep? And then how am I gonna drag this 5 to 50 ton chunk of treedirt. I’ll have a small dozer and excavator at my disposal, but I’m thinking that will be nowhere near enough pulling power unless I can take some weight off of the load. If I dig a 15ft diameter circle, and the shear plane of the dirt is 6ft deep, assuming red clay is 100lb/ft^3, thats 53 tons (plus the tree, which is negligible at this point). This is probably just some unrealistic, harebrained idea that will never pan out. But once I cut it down, it's gone, so I think it’s at least worth considering.

Am I crazy?

Ok, let me rephrase that: Am I crazy for thinking I can pull this off?
I'm pretty sure the power wheels hummer will handle it, but if not, are at least 10 of you guys with winches willing to come help on pulling day? :D:gitrdun:
 
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Sounds like its time to find a tree spade on craigslist and sell it for a profit when done in typical jeepinmatt style.
 
Root ball is the size of the crown:eek:
I'm thinking that's overkill, but probably a safe margin, haha. 10ft diameter and 4ft deep would be about 16 tons, which is probably a more realistic number and where I will end up. But dream big, right?!?!
 
a tree spade doesnt take that much up with it
Correct, which is why I'm a bit leery of that method. Plus I don't own a tree spade, and am not really motivated to buy one, and I have the equipment to dig a big hole and slide the tree. I don't want to go to the trouble of moving the tree only for it to die. I figure it has about 10-15 years of growth on anything I would buy and plant, and will provide good shade to the front of the house in less than 10 years.
 
@marty79 can you get me a good deal on a tree spade?
 
There are some Charlotte companies for hire with tree spades. I've looked them up but have no clue how much that would cost. I want a few of the trees from the 30 acres that is going to get clear-cut and developed right next to us.
 
I've got a tree Spade but it's only maybe 40". It will attach to your skid steer. If you think that would work you're welcome to try
I do appreciate the offer, but I'm certain thats just a quick way to kill the tree.
 
So I guess this means youre sticking around?

Cut the rascal down and plant another. Plant ya a few maples if you want something to grow fast while you wait on the oak.

It is likely that the tree has experienced faster growth recently because it is getting more sun now than it did before you cleared the property.

Look at one of these:
Water oak trees (Q. nigra) have a rapid growth rate of approximately 25 feet per 10 years, according to the Clemson University Extension. Water oaks reach up to 60 feet in height. Willow oak trees (Q. phellos) reach up to 75 feet in height and are considered rapid growers with new growth of 25 feet every 12 years. Pin oaks (Q. palustris) exhibit a rapid annual growth rate of 18 inches; tree height reaches 70 feet.
 
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Water oaks and pin oaks are not particularly long-lived trees. We have a few big ones, but I've been cutting down a lot of 6-12" caliper trees that are already hollow inside.
 
Water oaks and pin oaks are not particularly long-lived trees. We have a few big ones, but I've been cutting down a lot of 6-12" caliper trees that are already hollow inside.

This is true. Similar with Maples. Seems, the faster a tree grows, the shorter its lifespan likely is.

I think trying to move one this big will kill it for certain.
 
Cut the rascal down and plant another. Plant ya a few maples if you want something to grow fast while you wait on the oak.

It is likely that the tree has experienced faster growth recently because it is getting more sun now than it did before you cleared the property.

Look at one of these:
Water oak trees (Q. nigra) have a rapid growth rate of approximately 25 feet per 10 years, according to the Clemson University Extension. Water oaks reach up to 60 feet in height. Willow oak trees (Q. phellos) reach up to 75 feet in height and are considered rapid growers with new growth of 25 feet every 12 years. Pin oaks (Q. palustris) exhibit a rapid annual growth rate of 18 inches; tree height reaches 70 feet.
This, all day long.
Is there some personal reason why you're attached to THAT tree?
For the effort, you could have an equally or more awesome tree within a year's time.
Make that sucker into firewood and plant a new one where you want it. Hell, plant two if it'll make you feel better.

It's gonna suck when you do all this crazy work, and it dies and falls on the house.
 
The tree is moveable, I have done them that big, But I used a full size backhoe/loader. You would need a 10" ball so dig 5' out from the trunk. Once roots are exposed, cut them with a sharp lopper or saw, you don't want to yank and twist on them. You would want to water it a few days before digging so it can store all the moisture that it can. You'll have to dig a ramp out of that hole and down into the new hole. You dont want any straps around the trunk at all, all straps have to be around the root ball Get it perfectly straight before backfilling. When it is in it's new location, you want the top of the rootball/soil line to be at or slightly above the existing grade. Going any amount lower will kill it. Once it is in the new location, you want to backfill and tamp as you go, make the soil around it very firm. Stake it so it wind doesn't blow it around and then water the crap out of it until the soil is completely saturated. Then go on a watering schedule of daily for 4 days, every other day for a week, twice a week for a couple weeks and then once a week for a year.
Your issue will be digging under it so it will slide. I was able to use a full size backhoe and push into the soil and under it with the front bucket. I was also able to pull a chain under it for where the bucket wouldn't reach.
A Big John Tree Spade would dig it but expect to spend probably $1500+ for one tree.
I dont think your equipment is big enough but I don't know the size of your loader/dozer.
Personally, i would cut it down a plant a new one and yes I would use a Willow Oak. I can work with you to get a 5''-6'' caliper tree that is about 20' tall
FYI, I planted all but the old fat oaks at Carotek and all of the medical and office buildings that Addison built over the years.
 
It's to large to move without getting a true arborist and a shit ton of money to move it properly. After all that I'm sure they still wouldn't guarantee it will survive. Cut it and plant really nice trees with what you will save in $$$ dealing with this scrub oak.

Edit: this came from a tree guy I know.
 
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A local guy moved a big ass oak for a guy with his 30 ton wrecker. They built a box around the root ball and drug it about 45 feet to where he wanted it so he could put in his driveway/boat ramp.
 
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