Hummer Wheels and Spacers?

I am not arguing for or against the grease, just stating what the manufacturer recommends.

How much volume wise do you put in the tires PW?

I'm Not arguing grease or not. I am in favor of some sort of run flat that is not cut down. Seen to many of bent lips on the rim and pinched and cut tires due to running low air, and PVC or cut down inserts.
 
I've taken apart a few sets that all had grease in them. No argument here, but they must make that grease out of gorilla shit or something. It's NASTY!
 
I thought it was really bad too when I was trying to scrape it out with a spatula. Once I got some soap and water in there it just melts away.
 
I am not arguing for or against the grease, just stating what the manufacturer recommends.

How much volume wise do you put in the tires PW?

I typically put the same weight of fluid in as you would with the BBs.
 
When I ran 50/50 water/antifreeze I ran 8oz and then 12 oz in each tire. Seemed to work better than the air soft bbs/ steel bbs. The water is definitely easier to clean up/ fix on the trail.

The water Seemed to help more than the bbs, but was more noticeable over 55mph.
I stopped using it now, as my jeep stays under 55mph.
 
I am having them trued and balanced Monday. Saw them on the balancer, 2 are pretty out of round. Mil-spec means made by the lowest bidder LOL
 
Mac, I want to extend the tongue on my M1101 trailer downward to not have to use such a tall drawbar. It is hollow steel about 3/16 the best I can tell. Would a butt weld work for this, or would plating it on the inside or outside be better? Trailer weighs 1500 unloaded and tongue weight is around 200 or so.

This guy gave me the idea. I would want about a 8" piece added in which at that angle should give around a 6" vertical drop. Thoughts? I am a good welder with my 140A mig, but think a stick would be needed for this.

ai.imgur.com_ORzaCxQl.jpg





Stock looks like this

awww.duramaxforum.com_forum_attachments_2011_lml_performance_p0731b4ec7a3271379b54574f0e39f1c9.jpg
 
i wouldnt butt weld it, solely. I would atleast add fish plating over the weld seam.

This.

I would weld the pieces together and then reinforce with an overlapping plate as mentioned above.

Make the overlapping plate circular or diamond shape. This is to put welds in all different directions and planes.

140 amps is enough, as to weld that with a stick welder, would most likely be done with 1/8 rods which the amperage range is typically 90-135 amps for that size rod.

Just make sure if you weld it with the squirt gun as to turn the amps all the way up, and set your wire speed to get a quality weld on a practice price of steel in the same position as the weld on the trailer.

Be careful of mig welds in the horizontal position. This is the most common position for the weld to look good but have poor fusion. As gravity pulls the puddle downhill, it insulates the arc from ever reaching the base metal. This leads to incomplete fusion typically on the bottom and undercut on the top.

So to prevent this, practice welding in this position and pause longer on the top to prevent undercut, and when you weave towards the bottom, be sure to move fast enough to beat the puddle down.

The most important part of mig welding is to move fast enough to keep the arc on the front edge of the puddle when weaving.

Do not pause or hold in same place without manipulation with the intention of it "burning in". It will only fill outward as the puddle grows towards the wire and to the tip of the nozzle. As this happens the inside of the weld is solidifying.

So, it can be done, and is done often. Just be sure to practice welding in that position, in a joint similar to the trailer tongue, to dial in your machine and to get yourself ready to make the weld.
 
Thanks for a great answer.

So I usually try to place steel so I am welding it as horizontal as possible. Is it better to place it on an angle to run the weld slightly up hill? I usually set my heat to max and adjust wire speed to sound good when welding 3/16 and thicker. I watch it melt into the steel and try to stay ahead of the puddle. I have noticed that with the .035 wire it is harder to stay ahead, I am going to buy some .023 before I tackle this.

Thanks again for the help.
 
Thanks for a great answer.

So I usually try to place steel so I am welding it as horizontal as possible. Is it better to place it on an angle to run the weld slightly up hill? I usually set my heat to max and adjust wire speed to sound good when welding 3/16 and thicker. I watch it melt into the steel and try to stay ahead of the puddle. I have noticed that with the .035 wire it is harder to stay ahead, I am going to buy some .023 before I tackle this.

Thanks again for the help.

Note the difference between welding in the flat position versus the horizontal. A slight inclination will help with allowing you to keep the arc on the front edge of the puddle.
uploadfromtaptalk1424051507162.jpg
 
Back to the hummer wheels and spacers, when talking about running the DRW hubs are you guys talking about running them front and on the back? Does the track width come out pretty close?
 
I have seen it recommended several places. I have the same question. I cannot see how they could be ran on the rear but I don't have any in front of me to look at. I also think that they are more like 4-5" instead of the 3' most trucks would need to run hummer wheels.
 
they are 5" for sure. I dont think they would fit in the rear. Most ppl just run a 3" spacer in the rear. If you were planning to run that setup permanently, the best solution is to put a van width rear in it.
 
Thanks PW. I found a set of NIB 2" steel for $250 here, but they would give me only 5" BS. I need at least 4.

I think I will keep it in the back of my mind and maybe will run across some 3" spacers.

In the mean time, I will find some 16.5 spokes like I already have for the M1101.
 
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