Froehlich NP231 doubler (Lead Foot Innovation)

Georgia Mike

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Location
flowery branch, GA
Anyone bought from this company before? Thinking about buying their doubler kit. I've been out of the game for quite a while, and a search on here for their name came up with nothing. Anyone know anything about them, good or bad?

 
Anyone bought from this company before? Thinking about buying their doubler kit. I've been out of the game for quite a while, and a search on here for their name came up with nothing. Anyone know anything about them, good or bad?

My first question is what will go behind the 231? Everyone I know that has put a doubler in front of a D300 has blown up or damaged the 300 eventually. I would not even consider doubling another 231. Now that I have hijacked your thread I'm not familiar with that company. ;)
 
My first question is what will go behind the 231? Everyone I know that has put a doubler in front of a D300 has blown up or damaged the 300 eventually. I would not even consider doubling another 231. Now that I have hijacked your thread I'm not familiar with that company. ;)
I ran a 231/300 setup in my MJ. Never had an issue. I also had 32 spline outputs at each end and my talent cup runneth over.
 
I ran a 231/300 setup in my MJ. Never had an issue. I also had 32 spline outputs at each end and my talent cup runneth over.
I guess I should of added that iirc all started stock.... and I guess you are one of the few....
 
Colt from BleepinJeep on YT used one in the S10 they built and took on Ultimate Adventure. He said he ordered it and sent the money and never heard from the guy, then three months later it showed up. But he didn't report any issues with it after UA. Here's the vid where he talks about it and assembles it:



Duane
 
Anyone bought from this company before? Thinking about buying their doubler kit. I've been out of the game for quite a while, and a search on here for their name came up with nothing. Anyone know anything about them, good or bad?

Guy who runs that business has a reputation for being sketchy. Proceed at your own risk :flipoff2:
 
My first question is what will go behind the 231? Everyone I know that has put a doubler in front of a D300 has blown up or damaged the 300 eventually. I would not even consider doubling another 231. Now that I have hijacked your thread I'm not familiar with that company. ;)

It's not what goes behind the 231, it's what goes in front of it. This allows you to use a second 231 range box (planetary setup) as the input to a complete 231. Same concept as the Blackbox, Magnum, Rubicrawler, and others, but significantly less expensive because it re-uses most of a cheap transfer case.
 
It's not what goes behind the 231, it's what goes in front of it. This allows you to use a second 231 range box (planetary setup) as the input to a complete 231. Same concept as the Blackbox, Magnum, Rubicrawler, and others, but significantly less expensive because it re-uses most of a cheap transfer case.

You don't have to use a 231 as the second case though, you can use any 6 round 23 spline case, which I believe is why @ghost was asking. The particular doubler in the OP's link specifically uses a 231 as the low range box, but they also offer a kit to use other cases as the low range box.

Duane
 
It's not what goes behind the 231, it's what goes in front of it. This allows you to use a second 231 range box (planetary setup) as the input to a complete 231. Same concept as the Blackbox, Magnum, Rubicrawler, and others, but significantly less expensive because it re-uses most of a cheap transfer case.

You don't have to use a 231 as the second case though, you can use any 6 round 23 spline case, which I believe is why @ghost was asking. The particular doubler in the OP's link specifically uses a 231 as the low range box, but they also offer a kit to use other cases as the low range box.

Duane
Yes that kit converts a 231 into a low range box. Like my 203 does. IIRC 2 people I know that did that with a 300 eventually killed the 300 and upgraded and killed and upgraded. But you all have seen this just like me....
 
I'll add be mindful of ordering from Froelich since nowadays (for some time) he's gotten a bad rep for not producing product/no response/crazy delayed time on orders ...pretty much like how every "231 doubler builder" has always been. Everyone whose ever made these eventually I think gets overloaded with orders and then they fall off the wagon/can't keep up and customer service goes all to crap.
I have several customers that were going to order but after seeing and talking to a few who've not received their doubler kit in quite some time, I'd steer away and do either "Eco Box", Atlas or you could get creative like I did and do a divorced doubler with pretty much any 2 cases if you have the wheelbase (at least 112).
 
Is anyone else still making 231 doublers?
I made the file on my CNC table and was ready to cut/produce them but I had no luck finding a reliable Spined Stub Shaft maker. My machininst is too busy and 1 company that was willing wanted a minimum order of 250+ so I dropped it.
 
Northwest Fab makes a range box for $1200 and, from what I understand, you still have to put your own planetaries in it.
Yep, by the time it's all done and said jut get the $1800 they sell the complete box ready to bolt in.
 
Doubler picture.jpg


People will laugh but I've been running divorced doublers like this for about 5yrs now and it works. First case has the regular mount, rear 2nd case I build 3 extra bushing mounts (1 on each side, 1 on the bottom) with it's own crossmember and it's rigid and lasts. I'm running one on my current ZJ with 114 wheelbase (231/231 with 32spline inputs which swap over from a chevy241). It works, it's cheap and in my opinion stronger than the doubler kits since it's 2 separate cases rather than 2 bolted together and having all the torque in one long case. The rear input seals itself just like a driveshaft yoke does and you can clock the rear however you want then make the mounts. Sure it's "ghetto" I guess but freaking cheap and easy to maintain or replace if I did break a rear case.
 
I thin
View attachment 405785

People will laugh but I've been running divorced doublers like this for about 5yrs now and it works. First case has the regular mount, rear 2nd case I build 3 extra bushing mounts (1 on each side, 1 on the bottom) with it's own crossmember and it's rigid and lasts. I'm running one on my current ZJ with 114 wheelbase (231/231 with 32spline inputs which swap over from a chevy241). It works, it's cheap and in my opinion stronger than the doubler kits since it's 2 separate cases rather than 2 bolted together and having all the torque in one long case. The rear input seals itself just like a driveshaft yoke does and you can clock the rear however you want then make the mounts. Sure it's "ghetto" I guess but freaking cheap and easy to maintain or replace if I did break a rear case.
I think this is an interesting idea and thinking outside the box. I wouldn't do it, but I'm glad it works for you. The only thing I really see a problem is keeping them perfectly in line to not cause wear on the shafts and bearings. But, with limited use, could last a long time.
 
@marty79 didn't everything start somewhere in someone shop? I'd be more inclined to call it redkneck engineering.
I guess your right, I'm sure I'm not the first person to think of it and do it. I love it! It is annoying and tedious to get em perfectly lined up and making 3mounts with an extra crossmember brings its own challenges.
 
Back
Top