electrical wiring advice

83oldyoda4x4

83oldyoda4x4

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2008
Location
Randolph co, NC
Putting a subpanel in my out building. my plan was use 10/2 with a ground 30 amp circuit out to the shed then use a two breakers. 15amp for lights and a 20amp for receptacles. remember this is just a 12x20 shed not a shop, won't need a lot of power, no welding or anything. all the sub panel diagrams are wiring it up as 240 with two hot legs, im only using 1. The panel i have is for two separate circuits, what is the proper way to jump the hot wire to both circuits. Wire 2 pig tails in a wire nut with the hot and run to each leg?

Or is my thinking way wrong

here is a box below.


Google Image Result for https://i.ytimg.com/vi/qzDIf4M1Sec/maxresdefault.jpg
 
old school way is to tape the white black and the ground would hit the neutral and ground bar {this is why subs have a jumper from the neutral bar to the can} then also to run a driven ground at the the sub. OR just get some 10/3 and do it to code. Doing this on a single phase 30amp is retarded and your shits all F'edup
 
120v sub panel

you'd have to pound in a ground at the shed, with the subpanel route. You could just do 2 12ga UF-B (direct bury), one for each circuit, and save the cost of the subpanel and breakers.

Otherwise, I'd maybe run a 10/3+G (only .15 more a foot than /2), and put 240 to the subpanel. Plain, simple, and it's what someone in the future would expect by default.

What's the distance?? (shed to your main panel)
 
Willc said:
old school way is to tape the white black and the ground would hit the neutral and ground bar {this is why subs have a jumper from the neutral bar to the can} then also to run a driven ground at the the sub. OR just get some 10/3 and do it to code. Doing this on a single phase 30amp is retarded and your shits all F'edup
Click to expand...

What am I missing... Where is it that you are bonding the neutral and ground in a sub panel? This is wrong and illegal unless I'm misunderstanding what you're saying.
I do agree with just running 220 out to the shed and using the panel as it's intended though.
 
kaiser715 said:
you'd have to pound in a ground at the shed, with the subpanel route. You could just do 2 12ga UF-B (direct bury), one for each circuit, and save the cost of the subpanel and breakers.
Click to expand...
That's not to code.

Outbuildings must have one breaker.
 
shawn said:
That's not to code.

Outbuildings must have one breaker.
Click to expand...
I'd loose no sleep over that.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
kaiser715 said:
I'd loose no sleep over that.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It's dangerous as shit.

And more expensive than doing it correctly, to boot.
 
NEC says if the subpanel is not line of sight, is over 50’, from the main panel, or is an exterior circuit derived from mains power - it needs a disconnect. It can be a fused switchgear or a breaker. If you’re backfeeding a subpanel breaker from the main, it needs to be of the bolt-on type. If it pops off the terminals will still have voltage, as it’s being fed by a main panel.
 
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