electric heaters for garage

Breaker box is in the basement, opposite end of a ranch house. Running wire from there up to the attic and over and back down nearly 100' is not a trivial or inexpensive task. If I can avoid it I'd rather. It will probably eventually happen but not today ;-).
Also, you;re on the wrong side of DC and the rest of Maerry-Land for that to not be a painful drive.

There actually is a ventt hat the original owner put in. Its a single 3x10 at the floor on the house side. It was pretty much useless (1 bc its just too small, 2 bc its so far from teh furnacet he air coming out its even that hot). The bigger problem was that it allowed "garage smells" into the house way too easily. Its been blocked off for years.


You mean like this one?

I quite love this solution. The only reason I won't do it is bc I'd have to turn it around again in the summer, which kills the lazy vibe.
Although, I DO have another window unit sitting in the shed... and 1 more window.... hm. Would have to deal with the drainage too.
Well that’s a little overboard but I’m not one to judge….
 
Need to know more about this unused 12-gauge wire and the anticipated load. It might require a dedicated neutral, but maybe not. Would be fairly easy to run a 40-50amp 240 circuit for subpanel, then you have lots of options.
 
Need to know more about this unused 12-gauge wire and the anticipated load. It might require a dedicated neutral, but maybe not. Would be fairly easy to run a 40-50amp 240 circuit for subpanel, then you have lots of options.
Years ago I ran 3 12g Romex up into the attic and terminated in boxes in different areas over the garage. I dropped one down into the wall at the time to new recepticals. Left the other two for future use, whether dropped into garage or elsehwere on that end of house.. All grounded etc.

If I run anything >14g again it will be for a sub panel as mentioned.
 
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I need one that I can have come on before I come downstairs to the office basement. I guess that 24 hours timmer is just a timer?
We have one with a thermostat on it. Set and forget.
There are units that have "smart" connectivity (e.g. wifi enabled). You could also cheat and get a wifi / remote wall switch that you plug it into. That only works if the unit turns on and runs when it gets power though..
 
Years ago I ran 3 12g Romex up into the attic and terminated in boxes in different areas over the garage. I dropped one down into the wall at the time to new recepticals. Left the other two for future use, whether dropped into garage or elsehwere on that end of house.. All grounded etc.

If I run anything >14g again it will be for a sub panel as mentioned.
A two-conductor wire with ground is potentially a 240V circuit.
 
A two-conductor wire with ground is potentially a 240V circuit.
It is indeed. Too bad I didn't run 12/3. I just have to be real careful to only put a 20A breaker on it since the wire is still only 12g. And depends if it needs a neutral.
I mean if I want to create a real head scratcher for the next homeowner I could use of the wires off of the other 20A line.
 
Come down here and buy my MEP-003 generator. 52 amps at 240. Run big electric heat to get temps up, then maintain with a wall plug radiator. Bonus #1, runs a welder great (I ran my shop off of it until I got power run to it). Bonus #2, it will run most of your house in a power outage.
 
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Works great
 
If you're sticking with the 120V plug-in thing, might consider that a radiator or forced air heater is heating the space. An infrared is heating the object in front of the heater. If you want to put a radiator in there and let it run all the time at 60F or something, that's one strategy. Infrared just when you need it is another.
 
Obviously this is not a valid solution because it does not radiate heat. However...
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Obviously this is not a valid solution because it does not radiate heat. However...
View attachment 409928
Us poors just burn fossil fools 😔
 
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