D60 Bronco coil spring ?'s

Qwk87Coupe

Qwk87Coupe

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Location
Huddleston VA
Getting geared up to put a coil spring D60 under a 91 Bronco which will mainly be a trail rig with occasional road use. The basic idea is to stay as low as possible in the 37in tire range. Hopefully this can stay an easy, wallet friendly endeavor.
The plan is to extend/heim a factory set of late 70's RA's, butcher the TTB crossmember for clearance, smooth the 60 and add a set of wedges. Trying to settle on a set of coils and buckets. My main question is the coils. I see progressive rate, deavers, white horse, and a few other options. Any of significant benefit? Any to avoid?
 
I’m a dunce below the frame...but the Internet always says Deavers are the best compromise for DD’s that like to get flexy. I couldn’t tell you why, but those have always been the recommendation for as long as I’ve been internetting, and I haven’t seen negative reviews doing so.
 
I did this 15 years ago to my 85 FS Bronco. The only difference is that I removed the Bronco body and installed a Ranger cab and built an exo-cage. I used BC Broncos coil springs, and coil buckets from a 77 F150 I got at the junk yard. I used a late 70's D60 and welded the wedges on. I can't remember where I bought the wedges from. I used the 77 F150 radius arms and 'wristed' the passenger side one. I also hacked the TTB crossmember up to make room. If I was doing this again, I would skip the radius arms, and build a three link.


Front-2.jpg
 
Any F250 coil bucket. or any coil bucket for that matter. i think the 81-86 F250 coil buckets and shock towers are the prefered set. but its been a while since ive looked into it.

Also.. this is pricey, but could probably find the single component parts or atleast an idea of what you are building..

80-96 Bronco Solid Axle Conversion Kit-Broncograveyard.com
 
NickMaul said:
Excuse my lack of insight but can’t you just bolt in a wedge Dana 44 and be done?
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For the most part yes. However, I have a completely rebuilt D60 (I assembled about a year ago incase I decided to swap my ttb f250). It’s sitting in the shop collecting dust with probably atleast 4 sets of spare spindles, hubs, lockouts, shafts etc. I also have a handful of 10.25 sterlings. I have zero things 44 related. So it’s either source a 78-9 44, rebuild it, covert the outers to 8 lug or weld some wedges on my 60.
 
I am not trying to queer your deal, but what rear end are you running? Coming from experience, 37's on tons are not enough... Especially on a full size. You are going to drag those deals on everything. If I were you, I would try and run a minimum of 39's or 40's. 42's would be better but that is just me. What is the reason for wanting to run 37's?
 
When you say wedges, you are referring to those mounts for the old school Ford mounts? Why not just go with a standard 5 link? Blue torch makes all the brackets you need now. It will functional better than a radius arm setup. Get the right bushings and you can save on helms or Johnny joints. And, you could always add those later if you wanted more movement. Generally, you never want to go backwards, but you always want to do more. This way you will have minimal parts to refab.
 
BigGreenMonster said:
When you say wedges, you are referring to those mounts for the old school Ford mounts? Why not just go with a standard 5 link? Blue torch makes all the brackets you need now. It will functional better than a radius arm setup. Get the right bushings and you can save on helms or Johnny joints. And, you could always add those later if you wanted more movement. Generally, you never want to go backwards, but you always want to do more. This way you will have minimal parts to refab.
Click to expand...


I would ditto this...

Flat Bottom Radius Arm / Coil Mounts (Pair)


Bushed DOM Sleeve
https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/BUSHDOM.html
 
BigGreenMonster said:
I am not trying to queer your deal, but what rear end are you running? Coming from experience, 37's on tons are not enough... Especially on a full size. You are going to drag those deals on everything. If I were you, I would try and run a minimum of 39's or 40's. 42's would be better but that is just me. What is the reason for wanting to run 37's?
Click to expand...
Sterling 10.25 in the rear. 37ish was just ballpark. It's going to come down to whatever I can find a decent deal on used. Looking around it seems it'll be more in the 38/40 range.




BigGreenMonster said:
When you say wedges, you are referring to those mounts for the old school Ford mounts? Why not just go with a standard 5 link? Blue torch makes all the brackets you need now. It will functional better than a radius arm setup. Get the right bushings and you can save on helms or Johnny joints. And, you could always add those later if you wanted more movement. Generally, you never want to go backwards, but you always want to do more. This way you will have minimal parts to refab.
Click to expand...
Pennsylvaniaboy said:
I would ditto this...

Flat Bottom Radius Arm / Coil Mounts (Pair)


Bushed DOM Sleeve
Click to expand...
Yes, the same wedges that were factory on the 78/9 F150's. I'm sure a 3/4/5 link are far better options, but setting one up (correctly within a decent time frame) is a little out of my wheelhouse. Honestly, this is my first attempt at anything other than your basic white girl with a starbucks bolt on rough country kit [insert FGL line CD]. While extended arms and coils aren't a grand step above that, it's what I can make happen, with what I have, on a fairly quick timeline. I just don't want to end up with a box full of fab parts and a plan to "someday 4 link the Bronco". The plan is to drive the Bronco in the shop one Friday soon with the TTB, back it out by Sunday on the 60 after getting a measurement for shocks and a front shaft. It's already somewhat snowballed, I considered swapping a TTB lift that I have from another parts Bronco. Between a good buddy pushing me to do something cool and my little girl hounding me for a "high wheel Bronco" here we gooo..:D:D
 
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