D44 Pinion Bearing Swap?

Caver Dave

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@Tater and I were swapping the rear springs on the Moss yesterday and found the pinion on the rear D44 a bit "wiggly".

This is a factory CJ NT D44 with 4.27s, so thought I might get away with simply swapping the bearings (keeping the OE shim stacks in order), new seal, torque nut to preload, and let it go?
 
@Tater and I were swapping the rear springs on the Moss yesterday and found the pinion on the rear D44 a bit "wiggly".

This is a factory CJ NT D44 with 4.27s, so thought I might get away with simply swapping the bearings (keeping the OE shim stacks in order), new seal, torque nut to preload, and let it go?

Is the bearing bad or did the pinion nut just come loose? I would just tighten it up and see what happens first. Make sure to loctite is stake it so it cant back off again.
 
To answer the original question, yes you can.
Assuming it was set up correctly (obviously it was) then you can simply swap the bearing(s), set preload and rock out.
The preload adjustment is the only one that may be finicky. Just a few thousanths difference in bearing/race thickness can be enough to effect it.
Swap bearings, use old shims, tighten the nut to spec. If the pinion feels like turning a smooth door knob, you're good. If loose or tight, make adjustments. (Assuming you don't have a rotational torque wrench)
 
Sounds like the bearing is done.
 
I'm gonna wager preload shim pack thickness will be 0.058" to achieve acceptable preload.
For no good reason, just for fun

@Jody Treadway My old Mitutoyo dial caliper measured the preload pack at 0.059" (combination of the 6 measured individually)! I assume that does NOT include the 0.030" slinger?

Unfortunately, it looks like the oil slinger is toast... outer edges (in/after the offset) have radial cracks with a 1/4 of the OD broken off. Can't find one that looks like this one

20200508_223842.jpg


In other great news, can't find the blocks for the press or the fawking bearing clamshell (post-relocation ×2)! :kaioken:
 
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