Buy new tow rig or increase towing capacity of 1/2 ton

[chris]

Judging from the photo, you have the rig parked too far forward on the trailer.

Find out how much pin weight you've got and what the loaded trailer weight is. You can't do anything else until you know that, anyway.

I no longer park the jeep that far forward. The back bumper is now even with the rear of the trailer and I strap to the axles. However, with it loaded that way the sag on the truck is about the same. I'm not going to buy a scale so I'll see if I can find someone close who has one or perhaps take it to a trailer/rv place.

The truck may be wired for a brake controller already, not sure on the 1/2 tons though. My 03 3500 is, it requires a pigtail that plugs in under the dash then the brake controller gets spliced into that. The weight dist hitch, and controller can be had at redneck in lincolnton. or camping places but they are proud of their stuff.

I like you list as it is... I think the WD hitch will help out alot... you can get them online or at any trailer/RV places, like said...

also, depending on your trailer, you can get brakes/braking axles fairly cheap ($1-200 per), and with the right brake controller, should be plug & play (assuming you have factory 7 pin plug & towing package)

I should think it's wired for a brake controller already because it does have the 7 pole round connector from factory. Perhaps I can save some loot on the install and do this myself. Sounds pretty easy, plus I can have the heat going!

can't you add brakes to that trailer ? I was able to add brakes to a 3500# non-brake axle on my first trailer. It was a 'utility' trailer and looked similar to yours. Mine didn't even have the flange to bolt the backing plates to. Tractor-Supply (not agri-supply) had the flanges to weld on for $6. Bolted on standard brakes.

The reason I say this might be a good route is. Most car trailers are 2200# or more depending on construction/length etc. That utility trailer I had was only 12' but was light at 1200# If you can add some brakes and keep the weight down every little bit helps. AND you already have the trailer...

Also you can get a weld on 2-5/16" coupler at Agri-supply for like $30. That would be a good upgrade for using the WD hitch.

Find out your TW thats gonna help decide which direction you need to go...

That may be an option as well. The trailer is a 1993 so was considering a newer one. I looked into putting brakes on it at one time but by the time it's said and done I figured I'd be spending a minimum of $500. Plus I wanted to remove the tubing on the exterior and the wheel wells so I could haul wider things. If I consider the parts and labor I would have about $1500 in the trailer. If I can get a newer equipment trailer with brakes for less than $1500, I kind of felt that was a better route. I should be able to get at the very least $500-$600 for my trailer in the current condition. Whatcha think? Never imagined there would be so many optoins to choose from.

You might want to load up the XJ on the trailer and take the whole deal up to the trailer place. If you have the winter time lazies that would be the best bet. If you've done all that work on your jeep then this shouldn't be a problem. Go to etrailer.com and they have a few videos on installing a weight distribution hitch. Looks pretty straight forward.

I'm positive I could do it myself. The problem is it's cold as crap outside and my truck won't fit in my narrow garage.


Regarding WD hitches with sway control. What is the difference between friction and dual cam? Which of these is best and why?
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Weight_Distribution-sf-WD_With_Sway_Control.aspx

 

[Yay!Gurrr]

I'm running dual cam setup. It uses the tension of the bars when they are snapped in, in conjuntion with the cam/lever setup. You generally have to use it all the time (if the bars are hooked up) I can run with out the cams but I would have to move the chains from the cam/arms to the bars.

Friction is usually an add on device. Goes along side the hitch and is a flat type spring that resists the swaying motion. This style can usually be used separately from the WD part. Its easily added/removed

FWIW: My tow rig is a G3500 w/ a 9600# GVRW, it can haul 3800# of cargo inside. BUT its not very heavy of a vehicle. Its only ~5800# roughly. SO I run the WD hitch to help 1) redistribute TW onto the front of the van and 2) sway control so my van and 22' loaded trailer (~8500#) doesn't get pushed all over the place by cross winds, big trucks etc.

I generally run no WD bars when the trailer is empty (2800#) and hook them in when loaded. It takes <2min to hook the bars up. I either pull 4 links on the chains for a lighter pull or 5 links for a harder pull (more wight transfer) if that doesn't do it I'm out of wack somewhere and reposition the load etc.. For the first while I carried a tape measure and could measure how much things changed.

If you do get a WD setup, take the time to learn/understand HOW it works, then make the adjustments as needed on your truck. I've read many horror stories on RV.NET about RV places that improperly set them up for someone and the person has bad results.

Ex. To hard of a pull on the WD bars CAN actually remove weight from the rear of the truck. In some extreem photos they removed the rear tires to demonstrate this.

Keep in mind you can actually (easily) MOVE the load to make more or less TW as needed. That's hard to do with a camper.. I have a paint mark on my trailer and I center the front hub on that mark. I can easily make for aft adjustments if I have extra stuff on the trailer.

Some good things to measure (after you get your soft springs sorted out) or good to know for general towing with or without a WD hitch.
1) Measure bumper or hitch height on your truck.
2) Load a known weight onto your truck at the end over the ball if the gate is down. 100 or 200 is good. Measure the change. Put more weight on and measure again. Watch if you have overload springs as you may hit on those and your measurements will not be linear.
3) You can use these measurements to help determine how much weight you have on the back of the truck, regardless of the hitch being used.

* Overloads - If you loading is such that your either just barley hitting them or not hitting them, you can create a situation where when the suspension moves while going down the road, you actually hit and bounce or buck against the overloads creating a weird ride.

Have fun

 

[chris]

I'm running dual cam setup. It uses the tension of the bars when they are snapped in, in conjuntion with the cam/lever setup. You generally have to use it all the time (if the bars are hooked up) I can run with out the cams but I would have to move the chains from the cam/arms to the bars.

Friction is usually an add on device. Goes along side the hitch and is a flat type spring that resists the swaying motion. This style can usually be used separately from the WD part. Its easily added/removed

FWIW: My tow rig is a G3500 w/ a 9600# GVRW, it can haul 3800# of cargo inside. BUT its not very heavy of a vehicle. Its only ~5800# roughly. SO I run the WD hitch to help 1) redistribute TW onto the front of the van and 2) sway control so my van and 22' loaded trailer (~8500#) doesn't get pushed all over the place by cross winds, big trucks etc.

I generally run no WD bars when the trailer is empty (2800#) and hook them in when loaded. It takes <2min to hook the bars up. I either pull 4 links on the chains for a lighter pull or 5 links for a harder pull (more wight transfer) if that doesn't do it I'm out of wack somewhere and reposition the load etc.. For the first while I carried a tape measure and could measure how much things changed.

If you do get a WD setup, take the time to learn/understand HOW it works, then make the adjustments as needed on your truck. I've read many horror stories on RV.NET about RV places that improperly set them up for someone and the person has bad results.

Ex. To hard of a pull on the WD bars CAN actually remove weight from the rear of the truck. In some extreem photos they removed the rear tires to demonstrate this.

Keep in mind you can actually (easily) MOVE the load to make more or less TW as needed. That's hard to do with a camper.. I have a paint mark on my trailer and I center the front hub on that mark. I can easily make for aft adjustments if I have extra stuff on the trailer.

Some good things to measure (after you get your soft springs sorted out) or good to know for general towing with or without a WD hitch.
1) Measure bumper or hitch height on your truck.
2) Load a known weight onto your truck at the end over the ball if the gate is down. 100 or 200 is good. Measure the change. Put more weight on and measure again. Watch if you have overload springs as you may hit on those and your measurements will not be linear.
3) You can use these measurements to help determine how much weight you have on the back of the truck, regardless of the hitch being used.

* Overloads - If you loading is such that your either just barley hitting them or not hitting them, you can create a situation where when the suspension moves while going down the road, you actually hit and bounce or buck against the overloads creating a weird ride.

Have fun

I think I'm just gonna haul it to your house and let you have a look! lol

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

when you get a controller, go to etrailer.com... they typically have an installation video showing how easy it is to hook up...

also, good luck finding a decent trailer with brakes for under $1500, and I think you can put brakes on both axles, and be out well under that for everything (assuming you do it yourself)

 

[Yay!Gurrr]

I think I'm just gonna haul it to your house and let you have a look! lol

Sure, I'd be happy to help you get your setup going. If you felt like driving over to my place I'd be happy to help get your hitch setup. Or if your someplace at an event I'd still be happy to take a look. I'm no expert just learned a lot over the years through trial and error.

FWIW: For your first setup if you can swing it. I'd start off with a NEW hitch setup.

added: Make sure you get a properly rated ball, spend the $15 for a 10-15k rated ball (1-1/4" shank if possible)

I just checked e-trailer has FREE SHIPPING (over $150)
Here is all the stuff they have. WD Hitch section...
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Weight_Distribution.aspx

[I'd order brakes through them also if you choose to upgrade your axles. Just check for backing plate flange/plates or measure the spindles to get the right size one to weld on ]

[Here is what I run http://www.etrailer.com/p-66073/Reese-Strait-Line-Hitch-800-lbs-TW--12000-lbs-GTW.html
Note: I run 800# bars that I have setup to pull a bit harder than normal. ]

Depending on your total trailer load 800# or 1000# bars are probably fine.

 

[250krawler]

How much does a complete weight disturbution hitch run?

If i was in the same spot you are in, I'd buy 2 air bags some universal mounting kits. Then just enough air line to run to both bags and then into the fender well with a schrader valve you could fill at a gas station or with and air compressor etc (Or up beside the fuel filler neck behind the fuel door). You could probably make a setup like that for $200 bucks.

Other than that trailer brakes and load the jeep forward with your new found weight carrying capacity.

Load distribution hitches work I just always thought they were kinda high$. Don't see a point in spending that kinda doe for a trailer you tow 10x's a year. Maybe if you had an RV or towed all the time.

 

[shawn]

Dodge 3/4t and 1t frames tend to crack where the air bag mounts. Also, the stock hitch on the 03 is only good for 500# of tongue weight w/o weight distribution.

Either way, he's still pissing in the wind until he finds out how much tongue weight he actually has when the trailer is loaded. $10 and a CAT scale would fix that.

 

[chris]

Thanks for all the info guys. I've changed the order up a bit and decided to stay with my trailer. I found the sweet spot on my trailer so I'm no longer having control issues. I do have a bit of sway problem, but the WD hitch will take care of that. It's going to take me a while to get the funds for all of this, but its something that needs to be done.

1. Brakes onto both axles on current trailer, re-wire lights at same time.
2. Trailer brake controller
3. Weight distributing hitch with sway control.
4. X-brace/beef up trailer and remove utility rails/tubing and wheel wells.
5. Install helper springs or air bags if needed.

 

[strange1]

... Also, the stock hitch on the 03 is only good for 500# of tongue weight w/o weight distribution...

I noticed the other day that the bumper on my F250 is rated for 500# tongue weight and 5000# max capacity. Why even waste money on a hitch???

 

[shawn]

The OEM hitch on the 3rd gen Dodge *is* the bumper. The structure underneath is the same, the only difference is whether or not there's a receiver tube welded to the crossmember. In fact, there's a little dealer install kit if you bought one without a receiver and would like to convert.

I've heard Dodge revised the hitch ratings upward on later years, but who knows whether that was due to a structural change or just better data.