Brakes

brokeass4runner

brokeass4runner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2005
Location
Charlotte
My pedal goes to the floor the first time I push it. If I pump it then it gains pressure and I can stop. I replaced the rear shoes which were badly worn. Now when I first push the pedal it goes to the floor but with more stopping power.

When I go to adjust the shoes I dont have to move the adjuster lever off the star wheel in order to move it. I couldn't get the lever to compress against the star wheel enough to restrict it from being turned. Is this a problem? Will the adjuster back itself off because the lever isnt stopping it from turning?

Its an 85 rear axle.
 
Have you bled the lines out? Sounds like you have air in the lines. I am sure that if the lever isn't touching the adjusting gear, it could back off over time.
 
Yo,
Had same issue with an 87 Toy truck. Had to adjust rear brakes up to within 3 clicks of dragging on the drums, install new front disk pads, take almost all the parking brake slack out (4-6 clicks to tight) and bled the system many times.
Make certain ALL the rear brake parts move freely! ALL ALL

I am assuming your master cylinder is in good condition and not dying of old age and corroded inside. If your brake fluid is black, your iron master cylinder has corroded internally and needs a kit (which I do not recommend) or a new one from AZ or AA. They got a new one, off brand, for about $60. Stay away from the rebuilt crap or their famous $30 small box of rebuild rubber cups (rip off)

Rots a ruck....

Excuse me, I just passed some CH4.....:D :beer: gives me gas
 
Im about to go bleed them again. I am going to take the drum off tomorrow and check everything out. I think that there is a way to put more tension on the line that attaches to the lever.

What do you mean ALL ALL the parts. All the springs?

Thanks
 
rear brake adjustment directly affects pedal height however, having to pump the pedal to gain pressure suggests to me a bad master cylinder... try this: while sitting still, pump the pedal until firm and hold steady pressure on it... if your foot moves and there are no EXTERNAL leaks, replace the master cylinder... also, when you pull the rear drums off, pull back the little boots on your wheel cylinders, they should be bone dry, if they arent, they are leaking and allowing air to enter the system... check the mechanics inside the drum and make sure everything moves freely, is installed correctly, etc... and finally, what is the condition of the rubber lines? are they old and cracking (which i assume they are if they are 20+ years old)

hope this helps... let me know if you need any more help
 
So I just rebled them and jacked the rear end up and tightened the brakes until the wheel turned with a little resistance outside the resistance that the Detroit normally causes. I will check the brake lines tomorrow and the wheel cylinder boots. I am going to go ahead and order the FJ master cylinder from Marlin so I guess i'll just get some break lines as well.

Thanks
 
Like mentioned above it sounds like you have air in the brake lines but are you sure you don't have a leak somewhere? Are you losing brake fluid in your master cylinder? Your front brakes still have plenty of pad left? If you're losing fluid then your pedal would go to the floor or if your front pads are low then it'll use more fluid to push the pads out farther therefore causing the pedal would go farther down. Just my 2 cents, hope you get it fixed.
 
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