Blue Chevrolet

[ProbablyBroke]

Was there anything wrong with the 22r that came out of this truck?

 

[Scooter402]

Was there anything wrong with the 22r that came out of this truck?

It was missing 4 cylinders...just my humble opinion though.

 

[a_kelley]

Got my new flare set..

So I flared the line with the proper bubble fitting and installed the master. Tight clearing the line to fender, but it cleared. With the modified pedal pivot & custom offset pushrod, I got enough to fully stroke the master. Bled it and now the clutch releases. Progress.

Now onto other things while I wait on parts to arrive in the mail.

 

[a_kelley]

Installed transfer case. Front driveshaft clears ok, but is too short, so I'll have to retube it. (Probably because it was from an th350/205, not a nv3500/208). Also need to build a new transmission mount. The Toyota cross member can be reused. The old torsion bar cross member brackets require removal as well.

Now, the rear shaft is a different story.

I'll take and cut that cross support and replace it with one that goes below the shaft. Maybe I should buy one of the flame retardant aprons.. or just use the sawzall or grinder.. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Maybe if I get lucky, I can cut the center section that's bowed up and invert it and weld it back.. that would be too convenient though.

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

What’s your plan for front shackle hangers?

 

[a_kelley]

What’s your plan for front shackle hangers?

That's actually one of the next agenda items. 1.75 ID tube notched into the bottom of the frame with poly bushings. I had the front end sitting on blocks on top of the rear of the springs to simulate the shackle length and determine position at ride height and it'll work out for pinion angle & mount placement.

 

[a_kelley]

One frame notched.

Will have some offset side to side on the shackles but it should ride or I can make some offset shackles if it's enough to really be an issue. Or I can go complex solution a nd offset the tube to match the spring.

 

[a_kelley]

Better solution just presented itself: make the frame side bushing wide enough to be flush on the outside, and use a spacer on the inside of the leaf spring to make up the difference.

 

[a_kelley]

Update... One frame side spring mount done.. now onto the other...

Got speedometer gears in also, so have to pull the tail housing off the transfer case to install it after I rework the brace in the way.

 

[a_kelley]

Got the other side roughly notched out.

PSA: get good leather gloves to plasma or weld with. Plasma did this in one tenth second of starting a cut out of position. Burnt my hand with spatter. My reaction time is .2 seconds on a computer timing app. Take it for what it's worth. Get good gloves.

 

[a_kelley]

Got the driver side shackle bushing pipe notched and welded up. Not quite #weldporn.

Also got the frame rails cleaned off.

It was certainly well worth the money paid to a young man wanting to make some money to not have to do it myself. He even swept up the shop after he was done. There was grinding dust thick throughout the shop.

 

[a_kelley]

Finally got the front shackles mounted. They needed longer bolts and some spacers to make everything sit right. That's done now, I didn't get any pictures of that but will when I think of it.

Now onto important stuff, like transmission mount bracket, drive shafts, brake lines, cooling system & oil/water sensors, and fuel & spark tune up. Then it'll be pretty close to being driveable.. I forgot to order lug nuts.. that might be important.

 

[a_kelley]

Pics of front suspension.. need to install some parts and brackets yet.

 

[paulevans76]

Prob want that shackle to be kicked back with the spring flat. Shackle should be at 90* like that when the spring is drooped out. You can probably move the front spring mount hole back and the add an additional centerpin hole on the perch to make up the difference to avoid messing with your shackle hanger.

 

[a_kelley]

Shock mounts partly fabricated. Have to add reinforcement on both sides of the mount. Other side looks the same, just mirrored. I love having a plasma cutter. Took about 5 minutes to make both brackets and make holes for the shocks to bolt in once I had my pattern.

 

[a_kelley]

Plumbing brakes

I love niCopp line.

Front shock mounts are fabbed. Need to mount the soft lines (likely near/at the upper shock mount) and run the remaining two hard lines and terminate them.

 

[a_kelley]

Got the front drive shaft made, trans mount adapter dabbed, ready to burn in.

Need to bracket and terminate rear brake line and plumb to wheels, bench bleed master, full bleed brakes, fab/hook up ebrake, fab rear driveshaft, set pinion angle, burn on the spring perches and shock mounts, fab/install cooling system, and fuel(ing) system.

One step at a time.

 

[a_kelley]

Time has come to get this wrapped up.

Rear driveshaft

No, I'll admit, I'm not a professional welder. Nor am I certified. That being said, I've shortened at least 7-8 drive shafts, lengthened one (welding tube to tube), and not had any failures. (And that's just driveshafts, not counting custom bumpers/hitches/axle brackets/traction bars/exhaust - hitches and bumpers were mine though, and were inspected for cracks etc periodically for my peace of mind)

Next up on this project- rear brake plumbing & full bleed, shifter modification/clearance, 4wd shifter, plugs/wires/fuel, and radiator/heater hoses (and finalizing all the welds on the lift).

That's all that's left other than a road test.