Anyone done hardwood floors from Lumber liquidator? The Dream Home topia brand?

gmcjimmy88

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Joined
May 15, 2005
Location
Fayetteville
Anyone have any experience with this flooring? I am thinking of using this in my house next week or so. Was wanting some input? Here is the link to the exact material. http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ca...3&categoryId=14&sectionId=4&subCategoryId=289 I will be going with the extra/thicker quit walk foam under padding. Supposed to minimze that "hollow" sound when walking in a large empty room. Thanks for any and all the help/advice.
 
I install this type of flooring all the time. Get the good pad.
I am not sure about this particular ''kind'' since there are so many on the market.

If installing on concrete, you should also install a layer of at least 6mil plastic first.(vapor barrier)

Make sure you let it acclimate for 48 hours prior to install.

Are you installing it your self? Do you know about undercutting door jambs and all that stuff?

There are alot of tricks that I know to make installing a breeze.Things they probably dont teach at a lowes class.
Just let me know.
 
Yeah we are getting the thicker padding. I plan on installing it myself. My wallet hates me lately LOL. I do not know what you are refferring to by "undercutting the door jambs? If you are meaning cut the molding and jambs to allow a little room between that and the floor then yes. I have never done this before so any help/advice would be greatly accepting with open arms. Thanks.
 
You will want to cut the jambs so they are atop the floor.
Remember to leave recomended space between walls and floor. This IS VERRY important. Even space between the 2 under the jamb is needed.

You didnt say if it were going on concrete or wooden sub-floor.

Use a jig saw for curved cutting.

This is an ''engineered'' hard wood flooring, right?Not solid.
With some type of click lock system...If so get some good wood glue, as you will need it at certain times when you are unable to lift board to a 45degree angle to lock it. You will have to 'shave the lip off the board to allow you to slide it back in a flat position.Glue will hold it ,since you shaved the locking mechanism off. This is a handy dandy trick.
 
Dylan W. said:
You will want to cut the jambs so they are atop the floor.
Remember to leave recomended space between walls and floor. This IS VERRY important. Even space between the 2 under the jamb is needed.
You didnt say if it were going on concrete or wooden sub-floor.
Use a jig saw for curved cutting.
This is an ''engineered'' hard wood flooring, right?Not solid.
With some type of click lock system...If so get some good wood glue, as you will need it at certain times when you are unable to lift board to a 45degree angle to lock it. You will have to 'shave the lip off the board to allow you to slide it back in a flat position.Glue will hold it ,since you shaved the locking mechanism off. This is a handy dandy trick.
Click to expand...

I guess I should have mentioned some more information. It is an engineered floating floor over concrete with a thick pad and vapor barrier. This is also above ground my house is on a concrete slab. I am looking at roughly 900 sq ft of flooring. Living room, Kitchen, Dining room, and Hallway. I would like to replace the bedrooms old carpet with new and tile the bathrooms but that may or may not happen before I sell it in Mar to move to Ga. I realize I could get some cheaper padding and skip the barrier but I want to do the floor as if I was staying here living it for a long time. I hate not doing a good job just because it won't be mine type of thing.

Any tricks for around the fireplace harth (spelling?)/ "landing in front the fireplace? It is rocks and not uniforn in shape and at a 45 degree angle from the plank layout. I figured I would trace the outline and trim each to fit? Thanks.
 
The fireplace thing is a problem that usually has a ''custom'' fix. Due to the 'jagged shape of the rocks. You still have to have a gap though.
You could cut it real close and fill with some sort of sgueezable color matching caulk. Or put up a cool base board around the hearth...or quarter round..just remember, it wont be perfect. OR (i have done this and it sucks) you could use a masonry blade on an angle grinder and basicaly 'under cut' the rock so the floor will scoot under it. I wouldnt go to this extreme, but you could if ya wanted to. If you use baseboard, attatch with Liquid Nails.
 
isnt there some sort of tool that will mark contours of something such as rocks, and remain in place allowing you to trace the marks onto the wood?

I seem to remember seeing something like this once or twice.
 
Are you talking about a scribe. You could use this, but you still have to leave a gap for expansion, and that gap will need to be covered by trim or something, so its probably not worth the time.(imo)
 
if the hearth is fake stone then it's most likely Culture Stone or a knock off-either way it should be easy to find a couple sq' of matching material, therefor making it plausible to consider removing the bottom layer of stone and then re-install on top of laminate. i've laid a ton of culture and natural stone, the culture is VERY easy to cut with a side grinder & cheap diamond blade. also, figure out just how out of sq the house is BEFORE you begin, this way you know how much you'll have to fudge on your margins before you get to the end and go-well damn, it's 2" out and i'm on my last row
 
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