Another xj question and build

Wildwilly87

Wildwilly87

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Location
Arden
so want everyone’s opinion and input, from either personal side,or what they have seen that works on these.

I have gotten input from other friends and club members, but want the guys that do or have run these cherokees now, what there suggestions are.

Have a 2000 XJ Cherokee 4.0 Automatic 158k miles and rust free, has a lp 30 and a 8.25 geared 3.55, what I’m looking to do is build this as a daily yet weekend warrior built for the rocks. So want everyone’s input and ideas yes this is a budget build and family cruiser.

So questions, what size lift, brand things of that nature, of course will armor,locker bumper winch sliders will get that but any advice on companies is fine to

Here is my ultimate goal was going to go with 33s and 4.5 lift with a 3 link, swap the lp for a high pinion and keep the 8.25, do I wanna do it twice no, would I be unhappy after couple years on 33s, should I save up more to go to 35s and do a 8.8 swap, little bigger lift these are the things I want insight on, have done my research and seems pictures on the old inter web, but want experiences, like stated this is a family vehicle and have done my homework but want the guys with XJ’s to see there opinions.

Do I wanna go one tons no, not at this moment as much as like full widths not in the budget, but not to say wouldn’t of had to wait longer to do build

I know will have to piece together lift as don’t want a kit as I have looked at few 3 links, rear spring packs, and coils and so on, any help with piecing quality components to meet my needs will be grateful

Again thanks for the input, but new to the xj as has been awhile since had one, I am a master tech by trade so the work and the effort and mechanicals can handle, it’s the suspension, axles and things that want to get ideas on before start buying things.

Or if anyone has xj stuff wanna sell let me know as well as this is a budget build and family vehicle due to a baby on way
 

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I would say the l.p. 30 would be fine with 33s. I would wait to do any axle swapping till you go up in tire size, then decide what you need.
I ran 35s on a 29 spline 8.25 locked for a long time in my old xj without problems.
 
I was happy with amazon coil spring can’t remember brand. Ironman Andy makes the top of the line xj stuff if I did it again I would use his stuff


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Where do you plan to offroad? I was completely set hitting URE, the flats, big creek, and potts mountain on a rubicon express 3.5 short arm lift with a SYE, 33s. Fast forward and you get to parks with bigger rocks and 33-35s become a quick buzz kill. I am at this point now and am preparing for the full width one ton phase even though I don't play on running 40s.

For now diff covers and a gas tank skid are key. If you are in rocks you will definitely sit the gas tank down on rocks. Add a stronger tie rod double shear trac bar and wheel it!
 
Zj trac bar, pull some v8 zj front springs throw a $20 spacer on top of zj front springs, shackle the rear or add a leaf! If ya trying to keep it "niceish" I'd suggest frame reinforcements, rock sliders bc after ya wheel unibody hard it ain't gonna be straight... @IronManAndy has the hookups like loganwayne already said tho! The new 4 link skids he's made kinda makes me want a xj instead of building on the k5! Lol
 
Loganwayne said:
If you plan on wheeling it and keeping it a while I’d do frame stiffners. Plenty wheel them without but if you want to keep it do it now and thank everyone that agrees with me later


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Definitely plan on doing frame stiffness this vehicle will have for very long time I will build it then will become more of a trail rig but that’s in time, and after I have another daily. But agree @Loganwayne about stiffness front middle and rear and steering box brace things of that sort and plenty of skid protection
 
NickMaul said:
Where do you plan to offroad? I was completely set hitting URE, the flats, big creek, and potts mountain on a rubicon express 3.5 short arm lift with a SYE, 33s. Fast forward and you get to parks with bigger rocks and 33-35s become a quick buzz kill. I am at this point now and am preparing for the full width one ton phase even though I don't play on running 40s.

For now diff covers and a gas tank skid are key. If you are in rocks you will definitely sit the gas tank down on rocks. Add a stronger tie rod double shear trac bar and wheel it!
Click to expand...

Basically @NickMaul where you just stated be wheeling maybe few other places but I know I have optional lines if feel like can’t make it up to a certain obstacle. And definitely agree skid diff covers, just wanna make sure if 33s worth the time or if I should just buckle down put my big boy panties on and do what needs to be done on 35s kinda my dilemma bc changing to 33s to 35s little bigger step
 
I have thought about going hp30 and doing a 8.8 swap for 35s just unsure of lift size to accommodate them, don’t mind trimming but want it to look good, was going to run the Dirtbound offroad metal fenders for high clearance
 
HP/LP still a Dana 30 and the knuckles and U joints are going to be the weakest points. The 8.8 is an easy swap if you’re scared of the 8.25. The difference in 33 to 35 is minimal in my opinion and I would sooner add a lunchbox Locker to a well built rig with 33’s (keep better Fuel economy and such as a DD) than have no locker and 35’s if that makes sense.
 
Makes perfect sense @skyhighZJ, I have a artec truss for the 30 with c gussets, and not really scared and know 8.25 can handle 35 but that’s right at point it can handle, or go 8.8 just to be little beefier, but same axle tube I believe yea has disc brakes I don’t care if have that or not And is narrower, just wanna make sure happy on the 33s and not mistake of wishing went to 35s, but think 4.5 33s plating bumpers lockers and should do the job
 
NickMaul said:
Go strait for 35s. You’ll be glad you did.
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THIS

Wanna know how I know? :D

The biggest thing, is don't pull a @jeepinmatt and build that thing over decades :lol: Do everything you can afford to do just to get it out in the woods at Potts (You've been, you've seen there's bypasses, and PLENTY of help)

@IronManAndy makes everything you need to get onto 35's the right way. And the pain of purchase ONCE for the right stuff, is much better than buying it 3 different times because you were taking "baby steps".

Personally? I'd spend the money for a selectable locker in the front, and run a detroit in the rear, gear it 4.88 and run 35's. We don't do anything you can't handle on 35's locked. Besides, I know a guy with some beadlocks that would look great with 35's wrapped around them :cool:
 
In order of how/what I would do

Recovery points/skids (bumpers/winch/TC skid/tank skid/etc)
Steering - Budget friendly steering has already been stated...ZJ tie rod costs roughly $80 to swap in and substantially stronger than stock XJ
Frame stiffeners - I currently only have center stiffeners. They have really helped but front stiffeners are soon to come.
Lift - I ran 4.5" 3 link for a long time on 33s and had very little tire rubbing with minimal fender trimming. My set-up consisted of IRO 4.5" coil springs, Skyjacker 3" leafs, RC shackle relocation brackets, extended shackles, Rock Krawler 3 link, and crappy shocks. I loved that set up with the exception of the shocks. It was very smooth on road with little vibration/road noise. An SYE at the same time would most likely be needed.
Tires - As I said above, I ran 33 BFG A/Ts for years until I went to full widths.
Lockers/gears - A lockrite/spartan rear (in either an 8.25 or 8.8) will be fine. You'll notice some torque steer on the highway as you get on and off the throttle but its manageable. I would say selectable up front if funds allow. @Chris_Keziah runs an ARB in a LP30 without problems with 35s.

There's tons of little things I'm leaving out like brake lines, shocks, sway bar disconnects, etc but those can all be figured out easily.
 
CasterTroy said:
THIS

Wanna know how I know? :D

The biggest thing, is don't pull a @jeepinmatt and build that thing over decades :lol: Do everything you can afford to do just to get it out in the woods at Potts (You've been, you've seen there's bypasses, and PLENTY of help)

@IronManAndy makes everything you need to get onto 35's the right way. And the pain of purchase ONCE for the right stuff, is much better than buying it 3 different times because you were taking "baby steps".

Personally? I'd spend the money for a selectable locker in the front, and run a detroit in the rear, gear it 4.88 and run 35's. We don't do anything you can't handle on 35's locked. Besides, I know a guy with some beadlocks that would look great with 35's wrapped around them :cool:
Click to expand...
I agree @CasterTroy i will get in contact @IronManAndy and see what we can work out, wanna run 3 link and I will go hp30 and Chrysler 8.25 and hmmmm beadlocks be nice but can’t daily drive haha when get close I call ya troy and we go over options and what you think of which parts wanna get everything then go to work installing everything.
 
adamk said:
In order of how/what I would do

Recovery points/skids (bumpers/winch/TC skid/tank skid/etc)
Steering - Budget friendly steering has already been stated...ZJ tie rod costs roughly $80 to swap in and substantially stronger than stock XJ
Frame stiffeners - I currently only have center stiffeners. They have really helped but front stiffeners are soon to come.
Lift - I ran 4.5" 3 link for a long time on 33s and had very little tire rubbing with minimal fender trimming. My set-up consisted of IRO 4.5" coil springs, Skyjacker 3" leafs, RC shackle relocation brackets, extended shackles, Rock Krawler 3 link, and crappy shocks. I loved that set up with the exception of the shocks. It was very smooth on road with little vibration/road noise. An SYE at the same time would most likely be needed.
Tires - As I said above, I ran 33 BFG A/Ts for years until I went to full widths.
Lockers/gears - A lockrite/spartan rear (in either an 8.25 or 8.8) will be fine. You'll notice some torque steer on the highway as you get on and off the throttle but its manageable. I would say selectable up front if funds allow. @Chris_Keziah runs an ARB in a LP30 without problems with 35s.

There's tons of little things I'm leaving out like brake lines, shocks, sway bar disconnects, etc but those can all be figured out easily.
Click to expand...
Thanks @adamk all good points I just don’t wanna regret not going to 35s my big concern, so I keep all those misc. parts in mind as wanna build this right and once(well say once but shit breaks) just don’t wanna rebuild multiple times rather have right stuff and do it right first time
 
adamk said:
Oh I wasn’t saying not to go to 35s, I was just putting out my experience. I skipped 35s and went straight to 37s.
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That’s what I was saying wanna skip 33s and go to 35s because why I already know in the future would go with 35s so might as well do it now haha
 
Ironman Andy has the be all end all steering box brace solution IMHO. I'd go straight to 35's. It's what I'm doing with the old ECORS rig I got from Andy. His 3 link 4 link system looks great too and I'll be running that. As for stifners. Do it now your unidoby will thank you. Sounds like you have a plan and a good idea. I'd stay with the 8.25 I know plenty of people that run them with out issue on 33's and 35's. To me the 8.8 is not really an upgrade. They are both c clip axles both 29 spline and disk breaks on the 8.25 is an easy pull a part swap away. The 8.8 will need to either have the tubes welded or a truss done to make sure the tubes don't spin in the housing. Just my .02 off the top of my head.
 
ghost said:
Ironman Andy has the be all end all steering box brace solution IMHO. I'd go straight to 35's. It's what I'm doing with the old ECORS rig I got from Andy. His 3 link 4 link system looks great too and I'll be running that. As for stifners. Do it now your unidoby will thank you. Sounds like you have a plan and a good idea. I'd stay with the 8.25 I know plenty of people that run them with out issue on 33's and 35's. To me the 8.8 is not really an upgrade. They are both c clip axles both 29 spline and disk breaks on the 8.25 is an easy pull a part swap away. The 8.8 will need to either have the tubes welded or a truss done to make sure the tubes don't spin in the housing. Just my .02 off the top of my head.
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Definitely agree with all your input @ghost definitely will look into iron man, have looked at the rock solid offroad fabrication 3 link. Plan on doing stiffness all sections of unibody, and will keep the 8.25 and run simple truss on it and do chromo axles eventually, thanks for everyone’s feedback it is helpful and do listen to ideas unlike others everyone’s input is welcome and helps me make the right choices for right build and quality
 
If it were mine and I was doing 35s:
-Keep the LP30. The strength diff between them IMO isn't worth the hassle. Properly setup, you'll break joints first anyway
-Lunchbox lock the front and selectable rear with 4.88 gears. Personally, I'd swap in an 8.8 over the 8.25. Plus the ARB is maintenance free in an 8.8 where the 8.25 can require frequent preload adjustments.
-Plate the frame at least to the transfer case area
-Long arm the front with an Ironman4x4 Fab kit. No doubt about it.
-Keep the rear simple and utilize good quality leafs with good shackles as well. Read: Ironman4x4 Fab
-Beef up the steering link(s) and add a steering box brace

Remember what makes an XJ perform so well. Lightweight and simple. Do your best to keep both of those a part of the build.
 
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