97 LJ-ish build

I think @BRUISER has the YJ motobilt back half kit.
 
I think I have it figured out

Going to ditch the shock tower idea since the new frame is a lot narrower and I don’t want to hack up the tub. Bent 2 hoops for the shocks and going to tie them into the cage and frame.

Also going to get rid of the body mounts underneath the rear and just rely on 2 cage/frame tie ins. That way I can recess my fuel cell down to the bottom of the frame.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Geez what a pain in my sweaty ass.

cb4e0567118520d06804d61d3da31bc6.jpg


there was probably a better way to do it but it was annoying as shit trying to line up the angled brackets to the straight frame rails to the bumper. Then grinding the crap out of them for a proper fit up to butt weld them together.

I love motobilts stuff but I think some of the other slide on offerings might have been an easier deal.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Looks great man. Cant wait to see that rear axle under where with the new suspension.

Yeah I can’t wait to see it either. Unfortunately I have to take off for 2 months. So it’s going to sit for a little bit before I get back at it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Finally got some work done.

Made all of the rear links. BTW steel is fuggin expensive.

Cleaned up the rear axle and zipped all of the coil mounts and junk off.

88ab901750b8ebd4edbcfa71a093a733.jpg


Sitting at about 117” WB rn which is where it will probably stay. First thing to contact is the lower links to the upper link frame bracket on the up swing.

e4ddc87a389dbf80fb29e72ccf329b51.jpg


Could mess with it and maybe get another inch but I’m fine with it. Have about 4-1/2” up travel and 11ish down on the struts.

Here is where the axle ends up maxing out the strut.
4d6fc95a4a7a454bbdbe1d1f13ca4801.jpg


Need to cut the support tube and rework the frame mount to get a couple more inches here

ca52e39eebed7803e70e5371d84f9ba3.jpg


Also got these bad boys from ruff stuff for the lower strut mounts.

359ff2e234d0ffea6043560c29ca8b32.jpg



Gotta run to GulfStream tomorrow for some 1-3/4 to bend up the shock hoops. Got all week off so shooting to be done by the weekend.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Where can I get a driveshaft lengthened with only a week turnaround? I know there’s a few DS shops in NC. Who do you guys like?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Where can I get a driveshaft lengthened with only a week turnaround? I know there’s a few DS shops in NC. Who do you guys like?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Are there any Fleet Prides near you? There's Oliver's in W-S, but they might be too far for you. You'd probably have to ship it back and forth.
 
Are there any Fleet Prides near you? There's Oliver's in W-S, but they might be too far for you. You'd probably have to ship it back and forth.

Apparently I have a few fleetprides within an hour. I don’t see driveshafts on the services page but I’ll give them a call tomorrow. I’m also gonna call Oliver’s and see if I can get a quick turnaround and I’ll eat the expedited shipping. Thanks dude.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Fleetpride Wilmington is gonna hook it up tomorrow with the driveshaft!!Thanks for the suggestion. They don’t advertise that so I would never have known. Oliver’s is closed all next week for the 4th so no dice on that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Going over my #’s before I take my shaft into fleetpride. With the numbers I came up with at full suspension droop is 41” from yoke to yoke. Full stuff is 37.25”. Going to get my DS extended to 37” on the dot.

The thing I’m not sure about is this only leaves me 1.5” of DS spline engagement at full droop. Is this enough? Seems low.

What should I be aiming for on this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
How much is enough?
In racing circles with limited suspension travel the rule of thumb I always heard was you want a minimum spline engagement of 1.5x the minimum diameter of the driveshaft. I’ve never been a huge fan of math so for all the off roaders out there I find it’s simplest to say you want a bare minimum of 2 inches of spline engagement at any point in your suspension travel. Of course you don’t want to ever bottom out your driveshaft so once you’ve cycled your suspension it’s good to have at least an extra half of an inch of compression on the driveshaft as a buffer for factors you can’t replicate when cycling your suspension in your garage.


Copied from some random website but is what I always kind of stuck by and it has never left me hanging. Of course I’ve never ran big HP rigs....
 
1.5x the diameter of the splined section? So at 1.375”diameter = 2” min engagement + 1/2” buffer. Safe bet around 2.5” of min shaft engagement is what I’m shooting for. I can mess with it to get around that without extending the splines in this shaft. Thanks bro.

10f2c1134f7db4fc58d70ae800ae6827.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Got the last 2 bead locks put together and the rear shock hoops bent up. Not very interesting right now but I’m committed to getting it rolling by Monday.

f86aceaa6de5dfde3ad1d75250e8cc8a.jpg


f29db667e2538ce653d57e56e42f82a7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Got both sides done and the harness bar tacked in. Will stitch them all in tomorrow. Hopefully I’m in shape to finish it and get it rolling by Monday. Picking up the DS from fleetpride tomorrow.

1b9e2d9fb0aa9d21ce799f3bd520fbc6.jpg


1cd23f8d79ea5338c1b08975cad09bd7.jpg


Happy with some of my welds and not so happy with others. Getting better but still struggling sometimes. Overall I think this hoop is overkill enough for me to be comfortable riding on my own welds. The Lincoln is giving me trouble on some starts like spitting and sputtering for a second before it gets going. Tried a few things but might have to dick with it more later.

7686cf306044d9c3f85e7aadbbbf3704.jpg


11fb1f8634d44935c125e1a7de104aa7.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Back
Top