97 4runner pinion bearing

YotaOnRocks

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Joined
Jul 17, 2007
Location
Madison
I was under my 97 4runner today and noticed my rear pinion has a lot of play in it. I can grab it and move it up and down a considerable amount. It's my daily driver and I plan to drive it for several more years at least, currently sitting with 280k miles on it.

It could use a lower gear than the factory ones as I have several hills on my daily commute that require constant down and up shifting, but I'm not really in a spot to spend the money to regear it front and rear.

My question is how concerned should I be with the play?

Should I try to tighten up the pinion nut to take up some of the slack?

Should I just pay the man to throw some new bearings in?
 
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I was under my 4runner today and noticed my rear pinion has a lot of play in it. I can grab it and move it up and down a considerable amount. It's my daily driver and I plan to drive it for several more years at least, currently sitting with 280k miles on it.

It could use a lower gear than the factory ones as I have several hills on my daily commute that require constant down and up shifting, but I'm not really in a spot to spend the money to regear it front and rear.

My question is how concerned should I be with the play?

Should I try to tighten up the pinion nut to take up some of the slack?

Should I just pay the man to throw some new bearings in?
I'd tighten the pinion nut back up with the loctite but she'll need a rebuild (esp with the mileage being taken into consideration) . A re-bearing job ain't bad at all to do, assuming that's all it needs. If there's a shit ton of metal on the drain plug then I'd plan to go through it entirely.

With it being your daily I'd consider just buying an ECGS prebuilt 3rd, would keep your down time to just that of swapping the third.

What ratio is in it now? Stock tire size? 22re/5spd?
 
I'd tighten the pinion nut back up with the loctite but she'll need a rebuild (esp with the mileage being taken into consideration) . A re-bearing job ain't bad at all to do, assuming that's all it needs. If there's a shit ton of metal on the drain plug then I'd plan to go through it entirely.

With it being your daily I'd consider just buying an ECGS prebuilt 3rd, would keep your down time to just that of swapping the third.

What ratio is in it now? Stock tire size? 22re/5spd?
I'll have to check the ratio but I believe it is 3.90 or 4.10, 3.4/5spd running 285/75R16
 
I'll have to check the ratio but I believe it is 3.90 or 4.10, 3.4/5spd running 285/75R16
Either way, 4.56 would be what I'd go with if you're staying on the same size tire. You could even go 4.88 if you're doing alot of mountain driving, from experience those 3.4s will happily cruise at 3k rpms for hours.
 
Looking at the ECGS web store, the drop in looks like a very good value considering the new parts set up and warranty. I'd guess an independently built third in a shop would be very close to if not more by the time you get all the parts and labor involved. The degree of play, amount of drive time, and loads during will determine the extent of damage.

Was the play a few thou, or a few cuss words, or Speechless encounter with magic holding it together?
 
Looking at the ECGS web store, the drop in looks like a very good value considering the new parts set up and warranty. I'd guess an independently built third in a shop would be very close to if not more by the time you get all the parts and labor involved. The degree of play, amount of drive time, and loads during will determine the extent of damage.

Was the play a few thou, or a few cuss words, or Speechless encounter with magic holding it together?
I would guess somewhere in the .125 of play both up and down. I'm honestly surprised I don't hear any noise from it.
 
I would guess somewhere in the .125 of play both up and down. I'm honestly surprised I don't hear any noise from it.
Definitely cuss words. Improper bearing wear. Odd load on pinion and ring gear relationship.
Desire for a new ratio.
New diff or major overhaul.
 
Looking at the ECGS web store, the drop in looks like a very good value considering the new parts set up and warranty. I'd guess an independently built third in a shop would be very close to if not more by the time you get all the parts and labor involved. The degree of play, amount of drive time, and loads during will determine the extent of damage.

Was the play a few thou, or a few cuss words, or Speechless encounter with magic holding it together?
Generally when I've quoted a 3rd it's within $100 of their price, and I'm likely on the cheaper side of labor. Plus they have a 5 yr warranty on them as well (not that I don't but theirs will cover more than what I would)
I would guess somewhere in the .125 of play both up and down. I'm honestly surprised I don't hear any noise from it.
šŸ˜³ so 1/4" total? Either way damn that's more than I would've thought.
 
Generally when I've quoted a 3rd it's within $100 of their price, and I'm likely on the cheaper side of labor. Plus they have a 5 yr warranty on them as well (not that I don't but theirs will cover more than what I would)

šŸ˜³ so 1/4" total? Either way damn that's more than I would've thought.
Yeah 1/4 total, so would you like me to stop by the shop and let you wiggle my shaft before you get me a price to go through my rear end....

Seriously though, almost all my tools are packed in storage or I'd tackle it, how soon could you get to me?
 
Yeah 1/4 total, so would you like me to stop by the shop and let you wiggle my shaft before you get me a price to go through my rear end....

Seriously though, almost all my tools are packed in storage or I'd tackle it, how soon could you get to me?
I'll shoot you a pm here shortly.
 
Found a complete rear axle and front diff on Facebook for 450. The guy pulled to swap in an elocker rear and different gear front clamshell so I'll swap the rear third for now and have the front and rear to regear at my pleasure.
 
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