22r crankshaft removal

Chris_Keziah

Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Location
Winston-Salem
Yes but it will be a total pita. It'd be worth the time to pull it.
 

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
Moderator
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Location
Archer Lodge
Yep, yank the whole thing, you'll need to check number 3 crank bearing as well

Sustained high rpms (4500+) cause an oil starvation issue, pretty common in the 20-22R engines without oil mods
 

DAWGTOY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2006
Location
tanzania
pulling the crank without pulling the engine would be a major pita. you would have to pull the trans
out to get to the flywheel, then take off the rear main seal housing as well as the head and front cover.
so you would be way ahead to pull the engine as a unit. depending on the damage you find you'll most
likely have to have the crank turned or at least polished. put in new front and rear main seals while your
into it.


dawg
 

StretchASU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Location
Creedmoor, NC
blkvoodoo--- tell us more about the oiling mods you were speaking of.

X2...there I know this guy that builds solid 22r's for some guys that don't know the meaning of the word "break-in". Might help those of us that continue to beat the damnit out of some old Toyotas keep them living a little longer.
 

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
Moderator
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Location
Archer Lodge
Basic stuff mostly, chamfering the journal ports on the crank, Cleaning up castings, a larger capacity oil pan helps too.

Spin these engines hard enough and you pump all the oil to the top end pretty quick, toss in the bouncing and bucking of the vehicle and you start aerating the oil ( windage tray or crank scraper setup ) Knife edging and polishing of the counter weights

Pretty much the same stuff you would do on a high speed race engine.

Most folks run the piss out of the stock setup without regard too all the slippery stuff needed inside.
 

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
Moderator
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Location
Archer Lodge
I've built a few 22r's, seen a few eaten with similar results as Black Bears

Never built one to turn high rpm, didn't want to spend the money and time

Have talked to a few who have though, just like any engine, it gets expensive quick when you start driving them over the designed operating range for extended periods
 

Black Bear

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
I figured I wouldnt be saving any time.

So #3 is suspect too? what about the thrust washer?

I believe I had an oil starvation after the bearing spun, you can see the oil port marked into the broken bearing.
 

DAWGTOY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2006
Location
tanzania
#3 main bearing is where the thrust washers are located.
they will fall out when you pull the crank. when you reassemble make sure
they are turned the right direction---use a little assembly grease to
hold em in place.

dawg
 

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
Moderator
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Location
Archer Lodge
#3 main bearing is where the thrust washers are located.
they will fall out when you pull the crank. when you reassemble make sure
they are turned the right direction---use a little assembly grease to
hold em in place.

dawg

Also be sure you have the right set, there are thick and thin versions ( new and old versions of 22R) I have twice gotten the wrong bearing set, thin set in the newer 22R leaves you with end play that you could drive a truck thru.
 

Black Bear

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
what are the cut off years for the thick vs thin washers?


and i would assume that there really isnt a reason to pull the head unless i wanted to check things out.
 

DAWGTOY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2006
Location
tanzania
main bearing design change in early 82.
hope this helps. i wouldn't pull the head--the lifting brackets are
mounted to it. might as well wait till you've got it on a engine
stand to pull the head.
pulling it now won't tell you any more than you already know.
 

Black Bear

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
#1 rod bearing on the connecting rod side came out in two pieces.

All the rod and crank bearings show copper. I can take some pics, but am i looking at an oil starvation issue or simply age
 

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
Moderator
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Location
Archer Lodge
probably a little of both.

did the #2 actually spin ? as in is one shell lapped over the other ?

the copper is the inner make up of the bearing, the soft alloy outer is designed to wear away slowly. so some copper isn't all the surprising in an engine with any age.
 

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
Moderator
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Location
Archer Lodge
number one came out in 2 pieces as in, you have two half circles of bearing ? an upper and a lower , one should rest squarely in the cap, the other nest in the rod , the ends even with the matiing joint, and there should be a tang to keep it from spinning
 

Black Bear

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
Yes #2 spun and overlayed.

#1 came out in three pieces total. the cap bearing was one and two for the upper bearing. It broke at the oil passage.
 

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
Moderator
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Location
Archer Lodge
don't forget, when you lug the engine ( low RPM under load ) it beats on the bearings as well, if the oil is aerated it isn't affording the protection it is supposed too either

oil starvation, basic abuse, age, all factors

take some pics
 

Chris_Keziah

Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Location
Winston-Salem
Hows the crank look? I imagine it's gonna need a little work.
 

Black Bear

Well-Known Member
Moderator
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
#2 rod will have to be turned. the others im not so sure. The other journals are basically smooth, but there are some slight ridges or grooves similar to the lines in the bearings.
 

Blkvoodoo

professionally useless
Moderator
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Location
Archer Lodge
have the whole crank turned and polished doing one journal is pointless ( if you can even find a shop that would do that )

it's possible the journal ( or several ) are beyond any useable life, I'd at least start pricing new/replacements so you can weigh the cost versus machining.

as for the rod(s), you're probably better of replacing it (them) as well, to resize will only make that rod weaker, especially if it was the cap that got damaged ( from the look of the bearings, this is the case ? ) without actually seeing the damage ( pics don't help much ) it's hard to tell exactly what would be needed

I've got an '85 22RE core I'd let go of, but it does need to be rebuilt ( had a slight rod knock, possible wrist pin issue when pulled ) if that'll help at all
 
Top