2002 2500HD - Solid Axle Tow Rig

I have recently discovered, after a 1200 mile road trip, that 1900-2000 rpms really makes the truck happy. I was putting down 19mpg vs my usual 16mpg. Therefore, I believe that 4.10 gears may be happening. Since I have 4.56s for my other Silverado and it currently has 4.10s, I should pretty much have a free set of gears. Now I just need to see if the 79 Dana 60 gears will go in the 06 Super Duty axle.

@Jody Treadway ??

FWIW: currently at 65mph, I'm rolling along at 1775 rpm. 75mph nets me 2050 rpm.

With 4.10s at 65mph I would see 1956 rpm. 75mph would net 2250 rpm.

90% of my driving is local and I feel like towing would be better. I still have a few more mods I want to do, but it's definitely something I'm thinking about.

Also, I added a tailgate damper. It was cheap, but it's pretty awesome...not going to lie!
 
Almost forgot...

I've been doing a lot of reading about oil temps on the Duramax trucks and since I like projects, I decided to add an oil cooler. I was just before fixing to add a good sized, external cooler, but I came across the mention of the new 2020 L5P oil cooler being twice the size of my stock one. 10 plates in mine vs 20 in the newest version. So, with some GM part numbers and some searching online, I can have all I need for about 250 bucks instead of about 650 for the external setup. I'll probably be adding an oil temp gauge at some point as well.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Almost forgot...

I've been doing a lot of reading about oil temps on the Duramax trucks and since I like projects, I decided to add an oil cooler. I was just before fixing to add a good sized, external cooler, but I came across the mention of the new 2020 L5P oil cooler being twice the size of my stock one. 10 plates in mine vs 20 in the newest version. So, with some GM part numbers and some searching online, I can have all I need for about 250 bucks instead of about 650 for the external setup. I'll probably be adding an oil temp gauge at some point as well.
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You can't change aerodynamic effects, but keeping the rpms down does help. My 3.31 geared stock truck gets about the same highway mpg as my 3.55 geared deleted and tuned truck.

And the tailgate damper is great. Put a power tailgate lock on your shortlist too.
 
You can install the "old style" gears in a new housing. Only real difference is the old style will use preload shims where the new ones are crush sleeve style.
Start with between 55-60 thou on the preload shims stack and you'll be very close
 
jeepinmatt said:
You can't change aerodynamic effects, but keeping the rpms down does help. My 3.31 geared stock truck gets about the same highway mpg as my 3.55 geared deleted and tuned truck.

And the tailgate damper is great. Put a power tailgate lock on your shortlist too.
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My issue is needing more rpm with a fixed vane turbo. It's just below where it seems to be happy...a little too much load with the rpms too low. A vgt truck would probably be just fine. With stock size tires or even 265s, it was a lot better, but the 33s soaked up some rpm/power. I figure if it does suck, I can always add a 6th gear if needed.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Also, I added a tailgate damper. It was cheap, but it's pretty awesome...not going to lie!
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I agree on the tailgate damper...nicest $10 I spent on the F250! I always forget the F150 doesn't have one and let it drop.
 
I've been doing a lot of thinking on the oil cooler swap. It uses a different oil filter, which is smaller than what I'd like to use for extended oil changes and that got me thinking of how to add a bigger filter. The options are quite limited so I quickly decided on a remote mount full flow/bypass filter setup. Nobody makes exactly what I need and I'll have to piece it together. Luckily, it actually winds up being a little cheaper AND I can use -12 lines instead of -8. From what I've read, these engines pump 18 gpm at 2000 rpm and I didn't get warm fuzzies thinking about 1/2" oil lines that'll be 4 or 5 feet long.

The room up front is pretty limited. Radius arms, front drive shaft, and the NP273 take up a lot of real estate. The filter head will have to be farther back on the frame, just ahead of where the lift pump is located, but behind the transfer case.

The adapter, filter head, mount, filters, and oil will come from Amsoil. I'll just have to get some AN hose and a handful of fittings. It should also net me another 3 or 4 qts of oil capacity.
 
Nope, oil to water cooler. It's an oil cooler from a 2020 L5P Duramax. They're twice the size of the factory LB7 cooler. New one on the left (20 plates) vs the old one on the right (10 plates).


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I splurged a little since they were on sale this month and bought myself a new Wu Tang War Whistle for the tow pig :D

I'm really thinking on getting some ProFab manifolds and up pipes as well so I can replace everything at once and prepare for when I get the transmission built.

The new American atmospheric amplifier is from Tater Built Turbos. It's a 67mm compressor wheel with a 67mm turbine in a stock appearing IHI housing and built from new castings. Even with a 67mm compressor wheel, it's lighter than the stock (60mm) wheel by almost 20 grams, so it should spool quite nicely and work well for towing and take less drive pressure to get it moving.

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I'm planning to change the oil cooler at the same time I do the manifolds and glow plugs since it's right there. I will eventually add a dual remote bypass setup to it so I can add more oil capacity and better filtration.
 
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Looks like the rest of the parts won't be here until next week, so I may go ahead and swap the turbo to see how it feels with the stock manifolds and up pipes.
 
LB7 turbos suck ass to change and don't let anyone tell you different. Pretty labor intensive and it involved numerous stops to figure out how to get more leverage.

Anyway, old one is out and the new one is in there. It sounds crazy and spools pretty damn quick. All in all, still glad I did the damn thing.

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I almost forgot to mention that I only broke one heater core fitting (it was original and very brittle) and the AC manifold that bolts to the top of the compressor. You kinda have to lay on top of the motor and it's right there....plus, it's 17 years old. Oh well!

Naturally, nobody has them in stock. I ordered it from Advance yesterday and it didn't show up today like it was supposed to. I guess the driver forgot to grab it or something.
 
Fixed the AC lines and charged it back up. It's a good thing, it's been raining all weekend and I've needed the defrost.

I also picked up a new dash and passenger side grab bar for it today since mine is cracked and the bar is bent from the air bag. I just need to clean it, paint it, and swap them out. Luckily, it's a quick job.

The exhaust manifolds and up pipes came in Friday (11/29), but were scheduled for Monday (12-2). That was far more convenient since I could go ahead and get some paint on the manifolds well before they get installed. The up pipes are stainless, so I'll probably just leave them be.

I'm using the 2200 degree Rustoleum paint. I've used it on headers and exhaust parts on my K30 also and it holds up quite well once it bakes on. It sprays kinda like powder once you shake it up real good.

You can see the nice flowing radii in the new manifolds and up pipes. That's really more of what I'm after. The stock stuff is pretty abrupt with short bends, 90 degree dumps, and a choked off driver's side manifold. I'm in it for the long haul, so I saw them as an investment.

I've seen a little reduction in EGTs with just the turbo so far and I'm hoping to see some more with these and a little bit of tweaking to the tunes.

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Looks good. I've had good luck with the vht header paint. Probably a very similar product. Don't remember the temp rating off hand, but I'm sure it's similar. Really smells the first time it gets heated up, which bakes it onto the metal. I'm sure the Rust-Oleum product you have is the same way.
 
Boom! Got the title in the mail today! Paid it off 4 days ago. No more vehicle payments for me :D

It was only a year early, but it's just one less payment every month. It's a pretty good feeling.
 
I've made up my mind that it's getting 4.10 gears to keep the RPMs right around 2000 when towing in 5th gear. When I have the transmission built, it'll get a 6 speed conversion valve body and TCM tuning. That'll net me the same overall cruising RPM for those long interstate trips.

Sounds like a lot of money, but it'll be a basically perfect setup. Extra grunt, happier heavy hauling with the bigger turbo, and I'll still be able to cruise 80mph at about 2000 rpm!
 
Got around to doing some maintenance on this rig. Rotated the tires, serviced the transmission, and bolted on a new AC compressor. Got 285k out of the original one, so if I can do that again, it won't owe me anything. The clutch innards started rattling and it was the only AC piece that I haven't replaced yet, so I said screw it. Nice and cold and quiet as a church mouse. Just in time for it to be 82 degrees today!

The transmission gets a new spin on filter every 25k and gets a fluid dump and fill every 50k. 7.5 qts of Allison TranSynd and an Allison filter is only 90 bucks. Not too bad. It always shifts a little better afterwards too. 285k and still trucking right along on the stock transmission. Hoping to get it built this year with a nice Goerend triple disc converter, but we'll see how that goes. I think 4.10s have first priority.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Got around to doing some maintenance on this rig. Rotated the tires, serviced the transmission, and bolted on a new AC compressor. Got 285k out of the original one, so if I can do that again, it won't owe me anything. The clutch innards started rattling and it was the only AC piece that I haven't replaced yet, so I said screw it. Nice and cold and quiet as a church mouse. Just in time for it to be 82 degrees today!

The transmission gets a new spin on filter every 25k and gets a fluid dump and fill every 50k. 7.5 qts of Allison TranSynd and an Allison filter is only 90 bucks. Not too bad. It always shifts a little better afterwards too. 285k and still trucking right along on the stock transmission. Hoping to get it built this year with a nice Goerend triple disc converter, but we'll see how that goes. I think 4.10s have first priority.
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You getting some new gears or you want some old ones? Because I’ll have a front 10” 4.10 gearset and rear ribbed 14 bolt set within the next month or two pulled out of my junk.
 
Unfortunately, the rear gears you have won't work. It's got an 11.5" ring gear in the back.

I've actually got 4.10s for a Dana 60 and AAM 11.5...in my other truck...and a set of 4.56s to replace those with, so I could buy zero sets of gears and gear both trucks. That seems like a lot of work though.
 
Oh, forgot to mention...I just rode to Raleigh to pick up an Edge Insight CTS2 monitor. Had been wanting one for a while, found it on FB, and said screw it...gunna treat myself!
 
Finally got around to installing the ProFab exhaust manifolds and up pipes last night/today. Definitely nice pieces with lots of attention to detail. After lots of scrapes, scratches, cuts...they're bolted in and I wrapped everything first just for shits and giggles. I can feel and hear an improvement, but I can't comment on EGTs just yet since I broke my thermocouple. I've already got another one on order.

No pics of them installed. I was tired, disgusting, hungry, and you can't see the damm things anyway...but here's the before/after of wrapping them.

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Croatan_Kid said:
Finally got around to installing the ProFab exhaust manifolds and up pipes last night/today. Definitely nice pieces with lots of attention to detail.
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Steve is a cool dude and makes some seriously cool stuff...used to live ~5 minutes from him.
 
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Hooked up to my trailer and hauled the excavator out to do a few jobs. It seemed to pull better, boost builds quicker and easier, but I still have to wait until Monday to get my new pyrometer probe so I can see what changes have been made EGT wise. I'm hoping they've gone down some, but who knows.

I still think it'll needs 4.10s...definitely a new traction aid in the rear. I've gotten stuck three times in the last week because the G80 doesn't want to operate...so it's time for it to go!
 
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