2001 Chevy 5.3L engine codes

RenegadeT

RenegadeT

no shirt,no shoes,no dice
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2001 Suburban 1500 4x2 5.3L 180,000miles seems to be running fine, been calculating 15-16mpg consistently with one hiccup 13mpg a month ago, but 2 more tanks back at 15 mpg since then. Changed the oil last week. A few days later, SES light came on.
Before I start throwing parts at it, what sort of things can I test try to get rid of these codes? I had Advance Auto read them for me...
P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P1153 CHEVROLET - HO2S Insufficient Switching Bank 2 Sensor 1

My kneejerk reaction would be replace the pass. side upstream 2 sensor, then possibly feed a can of carb cleaner thru to clean EGR valve.
 
If you replace one o2 sensor it will likely kick the cel back on as it will respond faster than older side, then older side would activate cel

May be able to take egr apart and clean it, and test/check to see if egr valve is working correctly.
 
B2s1 is faulty for sure, unless the harness is melted. Clean EGR valve change it. I've not had much luck cleaning later model egts fwiw.
 
Forgot to mention, and not sure if it matters, this truck has the California emissions package.
I thought its odd that all this happened at once. I did have the trans rebuilt a couple months ago. Maybe they had to pull the exhaust pipe off, or at least move the O2 sensor harness. I still haven't had a chance to crawl under or pop the hood and look around.
 
The problem with cleaning the EGR valves is that it is a linear actuator and more than likely it has a worn section in the linear part of it and it is binding and not actuating smoothly. I'm certain they had to remove the exhaust pipe to remove the transmission, just did one and had to. However, that does not mean that their removal of the exhaust pipe has anything to do with the sensor failing. You have my $.02 (which I tossed on the ground for some kid to pick up and be like HEY I FOUND TWO PENNIES!! I literally toss pennies on the ground for that reason, and they fall out my pockets anyway, won't pickup any change unless its a dime or a quarter)
 
A couple weeks ago, I pulled the EGR valve off, sprayed it with sensor-safe TB cleaner and WD-40. Reinstalled that, had a co-worker with a Chinese GM scanner tool plug in. He was able to cycle the EGR valve, and the engine seemed to respond accordingly. Just for kicks, we turned each injector off. Then we headed over to the O2 sensor screen. B2S1 voltage did not look right, kind of hung steady while the other 3 sensors were oscillating up/down in a good rhythm. So I ordered an O2 sensor from amazon, installed it, and 40 miles later my SES light went off.
 
Personally I love my autel maxisys pro.. it'll do all that on most anything.. but that's a big investment but it's still Chinese but way cheaper than equivalent tool truck brand. (2900-3600 if you shop.. vs IDK how much)
 
Only works on GM products though, keep in mind. And doesn't cover 05 or 06 and up unless you get the CANdi module and firmware updates.
 
Well crap. Thought everything was all good, but the light came back on today. Ran it by advance to get codes read. Got the same P0155 (bank 2 sensor 1) plus a new P0135 (bank 1 sensor 1). Hoping this is just some symmetrical OCD Karma, I kind of thought to replace the b1s1 when I ordered one a couple weeks ago, think I'll just get another one and try it.
 
If you ask them to use the scanner you can look at the data stream for both oxygen sensors and see if it's doing what it's supposed to. Check fuses too in the event that it is a heater circuit short. Upstream should swing ,2-1.0 volt or so pretty rapidly (once a second usually)
 
RenegadeT said:
Well crap. Thought everything was all good, but the light came back on today. Ran it by advance to get codes read. Got the same P0155 (bank 2 sensor 1) plus a new P0135 (bank 1 sensor 1). Hoping this is just some symmetrical OCD Karma, I kind of thought to replace the b1s1 when I ordered one a couple weeks ago, think I'll just get another one and try it.
Click to expand...


Also check the data streams for some of the other sensors like maf. Even an intake leak could cause this and throw codes for the upstream sensors.

ECU compares the air in (maf) to the load, fuel consumption and exhaust (upstream 02) to monitor engine. Not only if they respond slow, but if these don't match, it will throw o2 sensor code.
 
Have you done the intake gaskets yet? They'll usually throw a code for 02s reading too lean, but they're cheap and easy to change.
 
Gotcha. Just checking. It's probably just the 02s then lol.
 
man this is crazy, at least I really wont have to worry about it til inspection for next June.
I checked the underhood fuses, both were good and had 12V with key on.
Crawl underneath, disconnect both upstream sensors. The new sensor on bank2 had continuity thru the heater, and I found 12V coming from the truck harness. The old sensor on bank1 had continuity, but I couldn't find a 12V pin from the truck harness. Oh well, I didn't feel like tracing the truck harness up and over the transmission, so I reconnected the sensors and called it a night. Since the truck had been sitting with key on for 10mins, I figured I'd fire it up, let it idle a bit. I was surprised to see no check engine light!
The light stayed off this morning on my 13mile commute. Hope it stays off, but I wont be surprised to see it again.
 
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