Frankenstein Street Queen (a.k.a. SpeedBump)

Ugh low motivation today. Got front brake lines hooked up. Had clearance issues with the steering shaft and the rad so temp secured it about an inch higher and when I go put the hoses on I'll finalize its placement.

Cut the ubolts.

I guess the low motivation stems from going out there this morning and spending 4 hours fudging with the steering shaft. It's rusted in place and doesn't collapse anymore. So the high hopes of getting everything done this weekend but driveshafts isn't looking good.

Speedbump at it again lmao

Ok done whining. Going back out there and see what we can get done!

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Welded on the front shock brackets and installed the shocks. Exactly as I finished the front I ran out of wire so didn't get to do the rear perches. But I did get to complete the rear brake lines.

Smashed the L bracket flat and welded to the perches so I can get the rear brake lines secured. Using 3/8 clamps to mount to the diff cover. The only hard line on the whole rig is a 6 inch section for the d side rear to make it from the caliper braided line to the T block.

Got the ubolts cut but I think I already said that. Did another start. Sounds much better and more beastly with the MAF sensor installed. Gotta find a good clamp for it and the to be installed air filter.

Put in the trans fluid. So that completes fluids except for PS, brake and rad. Rad hoses arrived but didn't get a chance to pick them up yet. Boo.

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ckruzer said:
Welded on the front shock brackets and installed the shocks. Exactly as I finished the front I ran out of wire so didn't get to do the rear perches. But I did get to complete the rear brake lines.

Smashed the L bracket flat and welded to the perches so I can get the rear brake lines secured. Using 3/8 clamps to mount to the diff cover. The only hard line on the whole rig is a 6 inch section for the d side rear to make it from the caliper braided line to the T block.

Got the ubolts cut but I think I already said that. Did another start. Sounds much better and more beastly with the MAF sensor installed. Gotta find a good clamp for it and the to be installed air filter.

Put in the trans fluid. So that completes fluids except for PS, brake and rad. Rad hoses arrived but didn't get a chance to pick them up yet. Boo.

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they might be ok, but id more those tabs above the spring. They will likely get ripped off in that location.
 
That's a good list of stuff done!
 
@paradisePWoffrd

I know exactly what you're saying. I was wanting to do that but the caliper is so far and yet too close. Will have to keep eyes open for other options as the future unfolds

@XJsavage

Yeah man. Super stoked! Dropping shafts off tomorrow and if I can locate or buy wheels this week I should be able to do a first drive this weekend
 
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installed rad hoses. not excited about the lower hose. the upper works, there was a bend that was ever so slightly restrictive so put a band around it to keep its form. they will work. not happy about the lower (return) but it will work. gunna need to figure out something more permanent as the future unfolds and as i figure out what to do about a fan shroud. only got about an inch to play with but that is only because of the shorty air filter, which is going to get reworked in the near future anyways which will free up another two or three inches.

gunna look into options alt to shroud. like a pusher and puller fan for traffic? dunno.

also after i get on the pavement gotta figure out an antiwrap solution before the first serious trail. been following the antiwrap thread and i think a truss mated with a antiwrap solution would be smart. as i will eventually truss anyways, it wouldnt be ideal to do barnes4wd antiwrap solution just to undo later??? so researching that. have the first 500 miles to find a solution and implement. ill have to get a reinforced diff cover at that point with the fill hole relocated too.

dropped off the rear axle to the shop today to get it shortened to 22.5 inches. also just having them rebuild the cv for 25 bones (not including ujoint costs). i did one a month or so ago and really didnt feel like doing it again lol. i think im going to attempt the front shaft on my own. we shall see.

Tomorrow plan to finalize wrapping up the harness, rear lights, front lights, perm install fenders, and drop off battery for charge. Then the next I need to route the new batt cables and pick up the charged battery. Thursday i plan to finalize the throttle cable setup. got the materials needed, just need Barney Fife to swing by. Then need to figure out what to do about the filler necks. Got some tubing to extend the inch due to the body lift, but the hoses are pretty stiff but also not feeling like getting new hoses because got some unique filler ideas.

need to drop the hydro hoses off at the shop to get formed up tomorrow. forgot about those.

Leaving floor body mount holes open for now, just fold down the cut outs and roll with it. wanting to research into alternative measures for easier access in the future if ever need be or else re look into welding the nuts. was having trouble before and i think its because the nuts were zinc plated or galvanized or something. or just leave it all tightened and weld up the floors and be done with it. Dont plan to ever pull the body again lmao.

Wheels are ordered. Tracking issued form Summit from Ga warehouse but no idea when will arrive yet. Will miss this weekend shakedown run. Gotta find a good exhaust shop in the aville area as will need to drop it off pronto once driveable.

Need to wire in dash indicator lights. When the dshaft arrives all i will need to do is swing by autovance and get a 1310/1330. Then with installed will finalize for sure the pinion angle then weld in the perches. I also noticed this brought the stock shock brackets way up, so may still be able to use these. dont want to weld the shock tabs in case they may interfere with the truss...

That should be it!!!
 
The lower rad hose on these builds always look goofy, even on mine. It's very hard to work with the neck angles there.
 
no matter how many fans you place on the rad, if you want to cool the whole area, you need a shroud. Look for a Taurus/Volvo fan setup. With the shroud it fits the Jeep sized radiator well.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
no matter how many fans you place on the rad, if you want to cool the whole area, you need a shroud. Look for a Taurus/Volvo fan setup. With the shroud it fits the Jeep sized radiator well.
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any issue with this being a ebay radiator not oem YJ?

what about mounting the taurus fan setup?
 
ckruzer said:
any issue with this being a ebay radiator not oem YJ?

what about mounting the taurus fan setup?
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Skip the Taurus set up as the fan is integral to the shroud. The Volvo fan uses the same famous Taurus motor and blade, but unbolts from the Volvo shroud. Makes mounting it to a custom shroud easy. Also grab the Volvo fan controller while you're there. Much better at controlling such a high amp fan than using relays IMO.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Skip the Taurus set up as the fan is integral to the shroud. The Volvo fan uses the same famous Taurus motor and blade, but unbolts from the Volvo shroud. Makes mounting it to a custom shroud easy. Also grab the Volvo fan controller while you're there. Much better at controlling such a high amp fan than using relays IMO.
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In that case... I already have a fan on there I can bolt to a custom shroud?
 
If its a rad made for a jeep, it isnt really big enough for an ls. Can it work, yes but youll need to have it working well for it to.

Make a shroud that covers the whole heat exchanger and places the fan out as far as possible. The more distance you have from the rad surface to fan the better it will pull across the entire rad.

If you have room, i might even look at the mechanical fan setup from the ls. It will work great on the street and mild trails.
 
It's a 3 core alum rad made for v8 swaps. The capacity is designed to be "sufficient". The fan is the one that came with it. It's performance... we will see

Would have liked to stay mech but it just panned out where the LS harness came with efan and the rad came with the fan. Will see how it goes. I would prefer a mech for trail. One less fail point
 
Did another start after filling rad. Ran for a bit. Was pretty cool. The autometer temp sensor adapter for the head didn't fit the actual sensor so had to drill it out with a 5/16 bit and then it fit perfectly.

A lot of little things here and there. Fenders on.

Set pinion angle with some spare tube I had laying around and a angle finder from lowes. Set pinion 2 degrees lower. Welded perches on. I'm happy with the welds but it may be wise to visit the stickman soon and have some better beads laid.

Very little left. Got wheels painted up half assed and got new valve stems in

Ready to go almost as soon as dshaft is done at the shop

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ckruzer said:
Haha. Can't have rusted nuts on such a beaut!!!
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Well I get to listen to USC students brag about how awesome the cock is, so nothing surprises me anymore. :lol:
Carry on.
 
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