"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Pretty much following most common builds I've found on forums except not using yj leafs and not using stock LCA mounts. (Stock YJ springs allow use of stock LCA and fits right to the front mounts I made but too many poor reviews on that setup)
 
NickMaul said:
While it is all apart like that I would grind the paint off of the frame rails and plate it with something. At least plate it past the steering box bolts on both sides.


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Quoted so he sees it twice. Your frame will rip at the steering box. Seriously think about putting plate from the front of the unibody to at last were it goes down and turns under the floor. Make a cardboard template drill 1/2"-3/4" holes every couple of inches and weld the edges and all the holes

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NickMaul said:
While it is all apart like that I would grind the paint off of the frame rails and plate it with something. At least plate it past the steering box bolts on both sides.


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Always does, well aware of those weaknesses
 
marty79 said:
Well got a little work done today..front cross member with shackle mounts welded in and got my 2x4cross member ready to be made with brackets for the rear. Those front hangers will be more braced/boxed in once all setup with shackles..
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so much shaking head. #1 is that smoke goo from a flux core on the center welds? #2 whats up with the infinitely variable height 'wood spacers'. #4 hammers speak volumes #5 is that a toy jack or what? #6 is that 1/8" angle iron your front crossmember that your life depends upon?
 
Chuckman said:
so much shaking head. #1 is that smoke goo from a flux core on the center welds? #2 whats up with the infinitely variable height 'wood spacers'. #4 hammers speak volumes #5 is that a toy jack or what? #6 is that 1/8" angle iron your front crossmember that your life depends upon?
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Really?
Really?!?

You dont understand the science of metals do you?
 
Chuckman said:
so much shaking head. #1 is that smoke goo from a flux core on the center welds? #2 whats up with the infinitely variable height 'wood spacers'. #4 hammers speak volumes #5 is that a toy jack or what? #6 is that 1/8" angle iron your front crossmember that your life depends upon?
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The hammer made me lol

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:beer:
 
Ok guys this is what I got..3 chromolly 7/8joints. Can someone tell me what I'm missing or need..I know that one none reds a nut and tube fitting but what else..thank u
0429171027.jpg
0429171028.jpg
 
How are you setting up the steering?
There is really no need for high misalignment spacers on the tie rod, (assuming you are running it knuckle to knuckle) as its operating angle won't change. You do however need them for the drag link usually as it's angle changes as the suspension cycles.
 
Jody Treadway said:
How are you setting up the steering?
There is really no need for high misalignment spacers on the tie rod, (assuming you are running it knuckle to knuckle) as its operating angle won't change. You do however need them for the drag link usually as it's angle changes as the suspension cycles.
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I was going to run tie rod on top of knuckles and drag link from Putnam arm to top of pass side top of tie rod like I've seen people run. That was the plan. I guess there was some safety spacers someone mentioned I should use?? Along with the obvious missing parts from that one heim pictured....and anything else besides those safety spacer things?
 
So leave out spacers on the tie rod, correct?
 
If I did use spacers on tie rod though wouldn't it put tie rod even up higher too? Just thought
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Looks like your spacers have different diameters? Are u missing a 4th?
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No they're all the same inner diameter 3/4bolt...that one set of spacers just has bigger lip on it
 
marty79 said:
I was going to run tie rod on top of knuckles and drag link from Putnam arm to top of pass side top of tie rod like I've seen people run. That was the plan. I guess there was some safety spacers someone mentioned I should use?? Along with the obvious missing parts from that one heim pictured....and anything else besides those safety spacer things?
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So you're saying heim (tie rod) on top of factory steering arm on passenger side knuckle (OEM mounting location) and then another heim (drag link) on top of that?
 
Jody Treadway said:
So you're saying heim (tie rod) on top of factory steering arm on passenger side knuckle (OEM mounting location) and then another heim (drag link) on top of that?
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Yeah..
 
That's gonna be a ton of leverage on that steering arm.
You need to reconsider doing that. It has been suggested to install a high steer arm on the passenger side and run your drag link to it. Then run the tie rod from knuckle to knuckle.

Mounting both the TR and DL above the arm will be a disaster waiting to happen. If anything, mount the DL on top and the TR under the arm. If you do that, I'd really suggest making them double shear for the sake of strength.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Mounting both the TR and DL above the arm will be a disaster waiting to happen. If anything, mount the DL on top and the TR under the arm. If you do that, I'd really suggest making them double shear for the sake of strength.
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This was my other option for better clearance. I'm sure u agree throwing money at this axle is a waste so I'm just looking to get by a few trips till I get my d60. This axle isn't worth putting money into so that's why I don't want the high steer arm..that kit/setup is more than axle worth and then some. In all honesty, will these 7/8chromolly heims with 37s not last a few trips of what I like to do? I'm aware there's a better and a "best" but surely these could work for little while....kinda like the front 44 itself, won't last on 37s but can make work for some time being mindful
 
What about this
picture.jpg
 
Would the above pic be better
 
You are saying to do this then
crossoverkit1.jpg
 
Either will work.
The first pic will have a lot of slack in the steering. The slack in the drag link will have to used up, then the slack in the tie rod and then the wheels will turn. For a trail rig it'll be fine.
The second pic is what I would do if it were me personally.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Either will work.
The first pic will have a lot of slack in the steering. The slack in the drag link will have to used up, then the slack in the tie rod and then the wheels will turn. For a trail rig it'll be fine.
The second pic is what I would do if it were me personally.
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Ten fo..thanks a bunch man!
 
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