ncgamedog
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro, NC
A dauntless v6 w a ford t-18/eb dana20 would be a sweet drivetrain swap for it. Provided the ford trans would work behind the dauntless.
Gone Postal : Mail Jeep Build
- Thread starter 95yjjeep
- Start date
XJfreakHO
Triad Trail Junkies
- Joined
- Aug 26, 2008
- Location
- Greensboro/Clemmons
Wow... Looks bad ass sitting on those tires, the front looks a little lower than the rear, possibly the angle, or maybe its just the fender flare decieving me, either way I love this thing, and think you should park it at the post office and watch peoples reactions.
whitneyj
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2008
- Location
- Mayville, WI
Definitely agree with you.
Another thing, you flap disked and cleaned up the shackle hangers so well, but you didn't close off the gussets on the DOM?
I also keep my rear up another 1" than the front to account for the weight of trailer gear, parts, tools, ect.
Just my $.02
ncgamedog, thanks for your input. it's kinda late to move the shackle hangers forward. the passenger side is set with the bushing in place. the driver side didn't have a bushing in it when i snapped the pics because i was still welding on it so the shackle shot up and back to give a decieving appearance. i put a pic below of the angle. i appreciate your advise and when i got done welding and sitting it down i said...shit! i might get some waggy springs up front to get the shackle back at a little bit more of an angle like you're saying. you think a waggy spring would help my shackle angle? are waggy springs pretty flat? or would it make the front sit too tall?
whitneyj,
i am starting to like the height too. i think i'll keep it this way. i kind of liked the exposed gussets i guess. i didn't want to hide too many of the welds.
as far as the rear, it should level out a little when i get the fuel cell, toolbox, trail parts and possibly a full size spare like you guys said. the rear is definitely higher right now.
that would be an awesome combo. i would have to get a driver drop transfer case since i'm running the hp44 tho. a dana 20 is passenger drop right?
so i'm DEFINITELY going to keep it right hand drive now. i am planning on running a PSC style single ended ram and a standard tie rod connecting the two knuckles. you guys think this is a good idea? is hydraulic steering okay for street driving? i've never ran it so i need some educating.
i've got a 'yota ifs steering box but it's friggin' huge and i'd have to cut out half of the grill to make it work and i think that'll look like crap. my only other option is to get a mail yj or tj wrangler steering box.
i've got a 'yota ifs steering box but it's friggin' huge and i'd have to cut out half of the grill to make it work and i think that'll look like crap. my only other option is to get a mail yj or tj wrangler steering box.
josh$$
FTA
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2007
- Location
- Morganton NC
Love this build very COOL!
ncgamedog
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro, NC
Not sure abt the length differences between the YJ's and waggys, but I think the waggys a significantly longer such that you'd end up with too much angle. That info should be easy to find with a little digging online.
I have learned that it pays to just "heavy tack" in spring and shackle mounts until you set the weight back down on the suspension. That way to can make adjustments to get it right. Its an annoying and painstaking process, but well worth it in the long run.
My advice would be to deal with it now while you're still in the building phase. It shouldn't be too bad to knock them off and set it up right.
*Edit* After you fixed the pic...Yeah that front shackle angle is pretty bad. Its even forward a bit. Thats gonna be a rough ride off road and limit your travel considerably.
If you mess them up cutting them off, I might would consider a design similar to this:
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=112
Just don't incorporate so much drop in them like the ones I posted.
Here is a link to a page where a guy built some of his own in this fashion:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=446024&page=2
Pretty good step-by-step pics. You could use the same method, just keep the locating bar for your bushing sleeves as close to the bottom of the frame as possible. Actually, after you had the horizontal spacing off the frame set for the outboard, you could tack them all together and then slide them up the frame as much as you'd like to mount them.
As far as springs go...It looks like the fronts you have on there are sitting a tad negative arched. Could be the pic. If so, those springs may be a bit too worn. I would NOT run a lift spring! But I might would try a different set of YJ's to see if they would sit flat or just barely positive arch. You might try taking a second leaf from another stock pack and cutting it down to be a third leaf to help them out a bit. That is if you're planning on a heavier engine. Don't be too afraid to mix and match leaves from different packs. Just try to use stuff from similarly weighted vehicles so the spring rates are at least close. Some folks will argue that its not good to mix and match spring rates, and it may not be the best, but its a good budget way to go to experiment on heights and spring rates. You may eventually break a leaf, but just write down what you were running and recreate it w junk yard stuff. That is still better than buying lift springs IMO. If you eventually nail down a combo that you really like and want some high quality leaves just take down the dimensions and have Alcan or Deaver build you some. Most folks who reach that stage just spend for links though.
I wouldn't say anything, but I have always thought a DJ would be a neat project, so I'd like to see it turn out nice for ya. It def has the potential to be a sweet little nimble rig. I would just be cautious about trying to make it into more than it is. Remember to keep it balanced throughout. IMO a v8 may be a bit much for it, and a 4.0l will not be an easy swap with the length and wiring. A 4.3L GM v6 might be another decent option. But like I said before, its YOUR rig, do what makes ya happy. Everyone has different styles and opinions
I have learned that it pays to just "heavy tack" in spring and shackle mounts until you set the weight back down on the suspension. That way to can make adjustments to get it right. Its an annoying and painstaking process, but well worth it in the long run.
My advice would be to deal with it now while you're still in the building phase. It shouldn't be too bad to knock them off and set it up right.
*Edit* After you fixed the pic...Yeah that front shackle angle is pretty bad. Its even forward a bit. Thats gonna be a rough ride off road and limit your travel considerably.
If you mess them up cutting them off, I might would consider a design similar to this:
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=112
Just don't incorporate so much drop in them like the ones I posted.
Here is a link to a page where a guy built some of his own in this fashion:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=446024&page=2
Pretty good step-by-step pics. You could use the same method, just keep the locating bar for your bushing sleeves as close to the bottom of the frame as possible. Actually, after you had the horizontal spacing off the frame set for the outboard, you could tack them all together and then slide them up the frame as much as you'd like to mount them.
As far as springs go...It looks like the fronts you have on there are sitting a tad negative arched. Could be the pic. If so, those springs may be a bit too worn. I would NOT run a lift spring! But I might would try a different set of YJ's to see if they would sit flat or just barely positive arch. You might try taking a second leaf from another stock pack and cutting it down to be a third leaf to help them out a bit. That is if you're planning on a heavier engine. Don't be too afraid to mix and match leaves from different packs. Just try to use stuff from similarly weighted vehicles so the spring rates are at least close. Some folks will argue that its not good to mix and match spring rates, and it may not be the best, but its a good budget way to go to experiment on heights and spring rates. You may eventually break a leaf, but just write down what you were running and recreate it w junk yard stuff. That is still better than buying lift springs IMO. If you eventually nail down a combo that you really like and want some high quality leaves just take down the dimensions and have Alcan or Deaver build you some. Most folks who reach that stage just spend for links though.
I wouldn't say anything, but I have always thought a DJ would be a neat project, so I'd like to see it turn out nice for ya. It def has the potential to be a sweet little nimble rig. I would just be cautious about trying to make it into more than it is. Remember to keep it balanced throughout. IMO a v8 may be a bit much for it, and a 4.0l will not be an easy swap with the length and wiring. A 4.3L GM v6 might be another decent option. But like I said before, its YOUR rig, do what makes ya happy. Everyone has different styles and opinions
ncgamedog
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro, NC
Not in a ford...your axles are from a ford. The early Bronco's used dana 20's which were drivers drop. But come to think of it...I dont guess the EB's came with T-18s (or at least not commonly). I'm not sure how the ford D20's are configured on the input side, but It'd be worth looking into. You might be able to find a Jeep T-18 that came with a 20 (Pass drop) and just switch cases. But I doubt it would be that simple...never is when it comes to drivetrain stuff.
Nah It looks like the ford 20's are 28 spline input and jeep/scout are 6 or 15. I wouldnt want to try to shoe horn a ford 205 in there either.
You could always do the flipped dana 300 thing, I guess.
K45
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2007
- Location
- Statesville
Do not know how good of a 4x4 it will be, but it definitely wins as a hot rod. Step down a size or 2 on the tires and that thing would be a hit at car shows.
Looks really good keep up the good work. I probably missed reading it but are you going to reuse the postage doors? If so are they going to be able to fully open with those tires in the way?
Looks really good keep up the good work. I probably missed reading it but are you going to reuse the postage doors? If so are they going to be able to fully open with those tires in the way?
yotakid, thanks for the compliment.
thanks ncgamedog. i'll figure out a solid solution for the shackle angle. i really appreciate your input.
valkrie45,thanks! i hope it's a good 4x4. we shall see i guess. i am losing the doors. they would bang be a real headache offroad. they wouldn't work with the big tires anyways. i am going to build some tube doors for it.
thanks ncgamedog. i'll figure out a solid solution for the shackle angle. i really appreciate your input.
valkrie45,thanks! i hope it's a good 4x4. we shall see i guess. i am losing the doors. they would bang be a real headache offroad. they wouldn't work with the big tires anyways. i am going to build some tube doors for it.
Jeff H
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2009
- Location
- harrisburg
gotta go right hand drive, could you maybe to a little reshearch on the way the steering is set up overseas where they came from the factory right handdrive and copy that design?
benXJ
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh NC
looks good....i think it would look better with narrow axles....just my opinion
i've decided i am going to do right hand drive. i'm thinking i could do a psc single ended ram that is attached from the axle tube to 1 high steer arm then a tie rod that connects the 2 knuckles. it will be like a crossover steering setup but without a standard steering box connecting to a draglink. OR i can try to locate a yj or tj right hand drive power steering box and go that route. i'll go with whatever i find. what do you guys think? is hydraulic steering okay for the road? if hydro doesn't work i'll contact a mail jeep conversion company and buy a steering box for a wrangler.
front spring / shackle solution.
i am going to use a wagoneer front 5 leaf spring from a 74-92 wagoneer or j-10. the measurements are 24.5" & 22.5" instead of the 22.5" & 22.5" like i have up front now. it will give me a little stronger spring so it doesn't go to a negative arch at its resting weight and will have enough strength to support a heavier drivetrain that i'll be running. the stock 5 leaf spring is rated for 960lb instead of ~840lb. the 2" offset spring will also get my shackle angle to the desired angle. lets hope it works out like i think it will.
front spring / shackle solution.
i am going to use a wagoneer front 5 leaf spring from a 74-92 wagoneer or j-10. the measurements are 24.5" & 22.5" instead of the 22.5" & 22.5" like i have up front now. it will give me a little stronger spring so it doesn't go to a negative arch at its resting weight and will have enough strength to support a heavier drivetrain that i'll be running. the stock 5 leaf spring is rated for 960lb instead of ~840lb. the 2" offset spring will also get my shackle angle to the desired angle. lets hope it works out like i think it will.
Jeff H
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2009
- Location
- harrisburg
haha i told him to run yota axles
Jeff H
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2009
- Location
- harrisburg
i dont know how ppl think about running full hydro on the road i have never seen it done but i would think it would be the same as running hydro assist and plenty of people run that on the road
MarsFab
Will work for money
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
i've decided i am going to do right hand drive. i'm thinking i could do a psc single ended ram that is attached from the axle tube to 1 high steer arm then a tie rod that connects the 2 knuckles. it will be like a crossover steering setup but without a standard steering box connecting to a draglink. OR i can try to locate a yj or tj right hand drive power steering box and go that route. i'll go with whatever i find. what do you guys think? is hydraulic steering okay for the road? if hydro doesn't work i'll contact a mail jeep conversion company and buy a steering box for a wrangler.
front spring / shackle solution.
i am going to use a wagoneer front 5 leaf spring from a 74-92 wagoneer or j-10. the measurements are 24.5" & 22.5" instead of the 22.5" & 22.5" like i have up front now. it will give me a little stronger spring so it doesn't go to a negative arch at its resting weight and will have enough strength to support a heavier drivetrain that i'll be running. the stock 5 leaf spring is rated for 960lb instead of ~840lb. the 2" offset spring will also get my shackle angle to the desired angle. lets hope it works out like i think it will.
If you're gonna go right hand drive use a yota ifs box mounted inside the passenger frame rail or for an even longer drag link use a standard saginaw box outside the rail. With the plating you've already done on the outside of the frame it should be pretty easy to mount up. If you need either box give me a shout I've got a couple laying around
I've also got a pair of old 3.5" lift yj springs layin around if they'd help. Give me a should if you need anything.
MarsFab
Will work for money
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
Oh and I've got a few drivers side flat tops layin here too.
thanks chris. i picked up a ifs reman'd steering box but it's huge. it won't fit too well inside the framerail and bumper without cutting out a good bit of the grill so i might try to locate a saginaw right hand drive tj box. i will see how the box on the outside framerail will work. i didn't really think of that as an option yet.
pm sent about the flattops.
MarsFab
Will work for money
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
You may end up running into problems with the Passenger tire hitting it at full lock left but it's worth a try.
what about a scout steering box?! aren't they mounted on the outside drivers framerail? i could mount it like the ifs box on the inner right hand side framerail. is it smaller than the ifs box?
MarsFab
Will work for money
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2007
- Location
- Harrisburg, NC
I'm not very familiar with scout boxes but it seems like they're kinda tall.
i got a little bit of work done today. i went and picked up some yj rear 5-leaf springs that i'm going to run up front (found on craigslist for a smokin' price). they're just an inch or so longer compressed but they give the shackles the angle i was after. it also gives it a little bit more lift up front which should help when i install the heavier drivetrain. i also got the knuckles painted that i picked up from marsfab. the balljoints were even good in the knuckles which saved me some money and work. chris is great to work with!
freebie big ass shocks a buddy of mine gave me. ~35" extended with 14" of shaft. should work good up front.
free soft door i picked up from bootsyj off of the board. my idea is to lose the cloth of the lower door and add a metal skin to it. then form the mail jeep door opening to fit the yj/cj/tj style opening. it will make it look more like a jeep that way.
15x9" steelies i picked up from thewarbeast on the board. i am going to shoot a coat of fresh black paint and i think i'm going to pick up some weld on beadlocks for them.
before yj springs.
after.
freebie big ass shocks a buddy of mine gave me. ~35" extended with 14" of shaft. should work good up front.
free soft door i picked up from bootsyj off of the board. my idea is to lose the cloth of the lower door and add a metal skin to it. then form the mail jeep door opening to fit the yj/cj/tj style opening. it will make it look more like a jeep that way.
15x9" steelies i picked up from thewarbeast on the board. i am going to shoot a coat of fresh black paint and i think i'm going to pick up some weld on beadlocks for them.
before yj springs.
after.