mncdriver
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2008
- Location
- Mooresville, NC
Had a great time with you guys, John and Crawl Mag - Crawl Accross America and our LKNC's in URE last weekend. Your craftsmanship with the postal is awesome. Well done!
Gone Postal : Mail Jeep Build
- Thread starter 95yjjeep
- Start date
Buddy Holly
Professional Amateur
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2014
- Location
- Mooresville
Awesome work as always Chad!
obullfish
Carolina Trail Blazers
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2011
- Location
- Candler N.C.
Bad ass!
WARRIORWELDING
Owner opperator Of WarriorWelding LLC.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2008
- Location
- Chillin, Hwy 64 Mocksville NC
Nice touch on the paint, most likely my favorite build on the forum. Clean purpose built and not killed by throwing a huge budget and ego at it.
CAROLINA ROCKRUNNER
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2009
- Location
- BFE
Or worthless parts thAt doesn't serve a purpose. So clean and yet over the top
88bronzetrooper
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2009
- Location
- Fort Mill
How do you like the lizard skin? Hows it holding up to you having your feet on it and such? I have been looking at it for the interior of my truck but not sure if it really works and how it holds up.
Thanks so much! We had a great time with the group as well. It was my best day of 4-wheelin' yet!
Thanks so much!
Thanks!
Wow, thank you sir! I really appreciate that. I have always disliked swiss army knife jeeps so I'm glad you like mine. I have tried to keep it clean and "simple" in appearance with the details in the fab and finishing touches so I'm glad you notice those. It's been a labor of love and madness at times!
Thanks Brett! I know we both feel the same way about the looks on a jeep so I'm glad you approve of how mine looks.
I've sprayed it on two jeep tubs now. Both are holding up well. I cleaned the whole surface with pre-pain prep (can be bought at auto supply) so it was a clean and oil free surface. I do use rubber floor mats so my feet are not always rubbing against it. Just because I want it to stay fresh and using floor mats makes clean up of the floorboards much easier after a weekend on the trails. It looks good once it's sprayed and it's nice because it supposed to be paintable if you wanted to paint the whole interior after you spray it on. I'll use it again most likely. You can buy it for heat (ceramic insulation) or for sound control. I used it for heat since there isn't any other insulation in the tub itself and my jeep is noisy in general with glass packs so the hot floorboards was my biggest priority to limit. If I were spraying it in a truck, I'd probably go with the noise control and spray the floors, roof, inner door panels and bulkhead, etc on the full interior for a quieter ride. It's easy to clean up too since you can clean your spray gun with water and a brush instead of more abrasive lacquer thinners or whatnot.
Yep! It's gonna be the...
!I'm so glad you didn't. I've learned a lot from building this old rotten, ugly turd! I look forward to hearing what Corey thinks about the progression of this previous pile of rust.
Yeah I was super happy about the grey interior floorboards. It looks super custom. I dig that!
Thank you! And yes that is Carolina Rockrunner's LJ. I'm building him a custom roll cage for it currently. It's a super clean jeep!
Thank you so much! I'm trying! Everything is a project! It's getting closer and closer. I do still need to rework the rear axle and go to a hi-9 third member. I keep killing my rear driveshafts with the short wheelbase and super low 9" pinion location. Sucks but I'll have to drop some money on that in the near future to make it "right". I'm going to take it to get re-tuned by a LS shop in the area sometime soon too. It still has a rough idle and has a hesitant throttle pedal that I think is caused by a pour tune. I think something wasn't turned off in the previous tune that I had done. I'm going to get a driving tune done next time so it's setup properly.
Wes
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2007
- Location
- Ridgeway, SC
I've been following this thread from day 1. This thing is awesome, and you do some great work. Very unique. Hope you get to enjoy it for a long time.
Well...big day in my world! I sold my built Ford 9" axle and am buying a used Currie Rock Jock Dana 60 rear with detroit locker, truss, 1350 yoke and 35 spline shafts. My driveline woes have continued with the super short, steep driveshaft angle and the new axle will allow me a much better rear driveline angle since its a high pinion design. My goal is for my driveshafts to last more than 300-500mi of highway usage...Haha! The "new-to-me" Rock Jock axle should be at my house in about 2-3 weeks and I'll build it and install it over the Summer/Fall season. It is already setup for a dual triangulated 4-link so I'm weighing the pros and cons of going to a 4-link rear with coilovers and air bumps. I'm thinking 10" coilovers, mid-arm link lengths and air bumps for the rear. What do you guys think? Time and cost will help with my decision I'm sure. Let the fun begin!
Falko
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Winston-Salem
I wanted to ask in your FS thread, but I didn't want to derail... why did you not opt to get a high pinion chunk for your 9” instead of downing your rig for the summer?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
I debated over your exact thought for months. I had made up my mind to buy a custom fabricated 9" housing and get the hi-9 third until I ran across this used Currie Rock Jock high pinion complete axle. For a hi-9 third member, I was going to have to run 8qts of gear oil in a stock housing and it would have inevitably leaked like crazy. AND the $2700 price tag for just the third member plus the fact that I was going to have to cut all the brackets off and weld new ones back on to rotate my pinion down and then I started pondering "well, while I'm at it?!" thoughts about a fabricated rear 9" housing with internal seals, unit bearings, brakes, 35 spline axle shafts, and on and on. It just started to be clear that a turn key style used housing would be easier than trying to retrofit my setup with some bling parts and all custom everything. AND I found a great deal on a used Rock Jock 60 with 35 spline shafts, detroit, brakes, truss, new bearings, seals and enough spare parts, axle shafts, gears, etc to build it twice. It just fit my budget better than the cost to build a new completely custom rear 9". I have no problems with a Ford 9". It was a great axle that didn't cause me any issues other than the leaky axle seal (from too much gear oil due to tipped up pinion) and low pinion setup that caused my stubby rear driveshaft angle to suck horribly.
Thanks so much man! Glad you thought it would turn out well.
NCJeeplover
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2009
- Location
- Claremont, NC
If the decision comes down to money, I highly recommend linking it with coil springs and good shocks. Its much more budget friendly and works great, especially if your only looking at 10" coilovers.
I also think air bumps are a waste of money if your rig doesn't see air time. I like a good progressive bump or timbren. My own personal rig has cheap energy suspension bumps and I have no problem with them crawling with good shocks.
Thanks so much for the thoughts on this. I'm going to look at how the axle link mounts are setup on the axle I'm buying once it's in my possession. Then I'll decide which way to go. I thought coilovers simply because packaging in the rear of my rig is very small. There isn't a ton of room to mount anything since it's a short, narrow frame and the jeep is not comp cut (which I will never do the the aspect of looks only). I do like coil springs and bilstein or fox shocks. It's a very nice setup, even with a short arm 4-link in a rear setup. I hope it all works. If not, I'll reuse the YJ springs as spring over and re-attach the traction bar and call it a day. Time will tell. It'll be a fun little Summer/Fall project.
I'm not worried about time of the rig being down. I just want to fix my current headaches with a well thought out decision so I don't have to mess with it in the future. I HATE doing things twice.
Loganwayne
#BTL
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2013
- Location
- Clyde, North Carolina
If you do go with coils used jk take off progressive springs work really well
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Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
NCJeeplover
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2009
- Location
- Claremont, NC
These are a great temporary spring when your building to get a feel for ride height (also cause there cheep to free). I know several guys that have run thoes in the past and they work well, they just tend not to last. Both of the guys I wheel with that run thoes have replaced them with a quality lift coil spring. One went through two sets a season before buying springs. I run and love rubicon express springs.
I just like to get rid of rear leaf springs cause I've found them to be consumable.
Falko
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Winston-Salem
You guys are wearing out coil springs? My brain hurts
NCJeeplover
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2009
- Location
- Claremont, NC
After a few rides they start to sag pretty good. I guess a factory coil spring doesn't like being compressed a lot. Maybe we squish them a little too much. They just start to loose ride height. After market springs don't do this.
Thanks for all the input fellas!
I'm either going to stick with my stock YJ springs as spring-over or I'll use some Alcan YJ SOA springs I have laying around in my garage. They are way too tall for spring-over so I'd run them spring-under in the rear. Not sure though. I'll figure it out whenever I get the axle mocked up in place under my jeep. That'll be a month or two before I work on it though. I have some roll cages to finish up first! I'm going to upgrade to a Yukon Grizzly locker in my front axle instead of going to coilovers and 4-link. Seems to be a better upgrade at this point in time. The spring-over setup worked well in my rear with the traction bar and everything I built. I guess, if it's not broke, don't fix it!
I'm either going to stick with my stock YJ springs as spring-over or I'll use some Alcan YJ SOA springs I have laying around in my garage. They are way too tall for spring-over so I'd run them spring-under in the rear. Not sure though. I'll figure it out whenever I get the axle mocked up in place under my jeep. That'll be a month or two before I work on it though. I have some roll cages to finish up first! I'm going to upgrade to a Yukon Grizzly locker in my front axle instead of going to coilovers and 4-link. Seems to be a better upgrade at this point in time. The spring-over setup worked well in my rear with the traction bar and everything I built. I guess, if it's not broke, don't fix it!
Lorenzo816
CTB
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2008
- Location
- Cabarrus County, NC
I knew I had seen you around CLT
RHD sticks out.
Good work.
RHD sticks out.
Good work.
CAROLINA ROCKRUNNER
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2009
- Location
- BFE
Need to to paint that diff cover postal blue or black. Bad ass brother can't wait to sit co pilot .