What should a water heater replacement cost?

Most tannkless instant heaters will never payoff in the long run compared to a high efficiency tanked gas water heater.

The cost to purchase and install is higher, use more gas, and because the efficiency isn't much higher than a good gas tank unit, there is very little, if ever any return on investment.

But it allows my wife to fill her GINORMOUS soaking tub with hot water and i can take a long hot shower at the same time or immediatly afterwards.
 
I'm going to install the water heater today myself, and then call the gas company to come hook up the gas line.

You almost certainly have a threaded flex connector line. Its as easy attaching a water hose.
If it were me.

If I were in your shoes and called a gas company I would phrase the question like this, "I am thinking about replacing my water heater myself will you XYZ" You may have them come out to find that you didnt contract/permit the change and they may shut off your gas supply to your house until its compliant.
 
Most tannkless instant heaters will never payoff in the long run compared to a high efficiency tanked gas water heater.

The cost to purchase and install is higher, use more gas, and because the efficiency isn't much higher than a good gas tank unit, there is very little, if ever any return on investment.

I agree that the payoff is a difficult sell, but I would need proof on the "use more gas" part. I don't see how it can use more gas than a storage hot water heater that heats water and then lets it cool off, and then heats it, etc. Even if the tankless has a less efficient burner design (just for example), it only needs to heat the water once. So you're going to save gas over a storage hot water heater that is on a thermometer cycle, no question. It would take a lot of gas savings to make up for the price difference though, I agree.
It's really about convenience and what's right for you. I like never running out of hot water, and I'm willing to pay extra for that convenience. I also like the idea that a tankless water heater isn't a constant energy sink regardless of whether we're using it or not.
 
And if you do it yourself without permits and proper qualifications and the very slim chance your house burns down because of your mistake, you can bet your ass the insurance company won't pay and you'll be on the hook 100%.

Likewise, you should never change out a light fixture or replace a switch or install a receptacle without pulling a permit and having an inspection. Because electrical fires burn down houses more than any other cause, and unlike a gas leak, they rarely indicate a fault beforehand.
 
After you reconnect the gas lines and turn it on, spray a mixture of dish soap and water on them just as you would a tire to see if you have bubbles/leak.
On Most of the repairs I've done on my and other peoples homes, I have seen a lot of inferior work originally done by electricians and plumbers and carpenters.
 
@shawn That's nice, but I've found more crap done by licensed electricians than I have ever done myself.

My house was wired by one of the better electricians in town back in '02. Last year, while up under the house, I found a coil of hot 14/2 up under the insulation on the bottom side of the floor deck. End was cut, but not taped or nutted. Guess it was supposed to be run somewhere, but never was.

My mom had a minor house fire a few years ago. Last person to touch any of the basement wiring was a local electrical contractor, about 25 years ago. They had added some lights in the basement....and had wired in with a 14 ga. extension cord within the ceiling. That had shorted in the fixture...but fuse didn't blow, because there was a 100amp motor starting fuse in place.

I'll do my own, thank you.
 
I'm going to install the water heater today myself, and then call the gas company to come hook up the gas line.
Call you local FD after you complete install and ask them to check with gas meter around the fittings and at the exhaust. Make sure the exhaust is flowing up hill and get a CO detector for every level of the home and keep them at least a foot from the floor. You can do this safely and correctly with basic tools.
 
@shawn That's nice, but I've found more crap done by licensed electricians than I have ever done myself.

My house was wired by one of the better electricians in town back in '02. Last year, while up under the house, I found a coil of hot 14/2 up under the insulation on the bottom side of the floor deck. End was cut, but not taped or nutted. Guess it was supposed to be run somewhere, but never was.

My mom had a minor house fire a few years ago. Last person to touch any of the basement wiring was a local electrical contractor, about 25 years ago. They had added some lights in the basement....and had wired in with a 14 ga. extension cord within the ceiling. That had shorted in the fixture...but fuse didn't blow, because there was a 100amp motor starting fuse in place.

I'll do my own, thank you.

That's what inspections are for. If it didn't get properly inspected, that's a problem.
 
I agree that the payoff is a difficult sell, but I would need proof on the "use more gas" part. I don't see how it can use more gas than a storage hot water heater that heats water and then lets it cool off, and then heats it, etc. Even if the tankless has a less efficient burner design (just for example), it only needs to heat the water once. So you're going to save gas over a storage hot water heater that is on a thermometer cycle, no question. It would take a lot of gas savings to make up for the price difference though, I agree.
It's really about convenience and what's right for you. I like never running out of hot water, and I'm willing to pay extra for that convenience. I also like the idea that a tankless water heater isn't a constant energy sink regardless of whether we're using it or not.


Just a start.

Let me google that for you
 
Yeah, I don't understand how they could use more gas in absolute terms, except via some Jevons Paradox effects.

In contrast to all my previous statements on the subject, I'm considering getting a tankless. Only because I want a gas WH, and I want a recirc loop, and I don't have a good place to locate a tank. I'm concerned about longevity when paired with mineral-heavy and slightly acidic well water, though.
 
Update: me and my Dad replaced it ourselves. After looking at the gas fittings, I decided that was simpler than gas fittings I've done on my Jeeps, so we did it all. I've checked it for leaks twice with soapy water.
My Dad is 76 years old (I'm 37). He drove 90 minutes to help. He is awesome!
 
So... how are you going to spend the $2k you saved?
 
Holy Jeebus.... $2400 for a water heater? Damn I'm glad I do all my own plumbing and electrical. Like said above, I've found some crappy work done by so called "professionals". I think if you do it yourself, you tend to go that extra mile to make sure it's right. You checked twice for leaks, whereas a "pro" would have only checked once if he did at all.
 
Likewise, you should never change out a light fixture or replace a switch or install a receptacle without pulling a permit and having an inspection

I work for a county school system and we have an "open" permit for this reason. We have somewhere around 250 permit items a month.
 
I realize you did it yourself but my total cost a couple years a go was $1400, local plumber did it all & supplied everything. took 1/2 day from start to finish.
 
There are lots of factors in a gas water heater replacement that cause an elevated price from what you may think logic dictates. I'm not saying a plumbers install will be perfect, as most "plumbers" are not licensed and are operating under the owners number. But what I'm saying is there are far more factors and liabilities involved than you realize. Factors that (when done right) cost money.

Water heaters are pressure vessels.
Gas water heaters produce Carbon monoxide. If vented incorrect you can kill your whole family.
Gas leaks can cause explosions.

If any one of the above occurs and you cannot produce a permit for the work with a licensed contractor, you're gonna have a bad day (but to Shawns point...outlets and lights also apply in this scenario)
Also you MAY run into some roadblocks if you sell the house (same with building your own deck.....it's RARE, but it DOES happen)

I refuse to specify instantaneous water heaters whether gas or electric. In my 25 yrs of PM&E design I've never seen a payback, nor benefit in using them. They ALWAYS seem to be a contractor VE item that owners (usually churches) go for to save up front cost, but they NEVER maintain them the way they're required (ANNUAL descaling...and I mean the PROPER descaling) and within 5-8 yrs start causing serious problems. Most electric instantaneous will last JUST past their 1yr warranty before taking a shit.
Forsyth county in particular has upped their PH to PROMOTE scaling in their water lines so that they don't have as many failures in the winter. This is a cheaters way of making your brittle water lines "thicker" so you don't have to replace them. Because of that in FC we have to install water treatment systems to prevent premature boiler failure.
 
Gas water heaters produce Carbon monoxide. If vented incorrect you can kill your whole family.

That's actually harder than it sounds. The venting, I mean. Not the CO poisoning. Newer houses are often negatively pressurized, which can cause backdrafting at open exhausts like at gas water heaters.
 
I understand all that, and I'm still confused about what you mean by "uses more gas". Unless you mean that you need larger gas lines because it needs higher flow while operating. Nothing else would make sense, so I'm going to infer that's what you meant.
Last summer our gas WH started leaking, I'd been debating tankless for awhile.
After some research, I discovered that, since our furnace is gas, as is the dryer, in order to get the throughput I might need if they all turned on at once I'd have to change out all the pipe to the main junction/meter to have at least a 1" pipe, and ideally 1.25", which also meant replacing the meter head. B/c of this I couldn't do it myself and the install cost would be huge, without really even neding anything extraordinary for the WH.
You have to consider the total potential draw of all devices.

My (weak) understanding of instant heaters is that they have much higher BTU burners so you get water hot instantly, so when they are running, the momentary cubic foot draw is in fact higher. I recall I owuld have had to increase the line from mine from 1/2" to 3/4" or something.

Oh and in the end, I bought the 3-year warranty one from Lowes and had it installed by somebody exactly by code myself, an exact replacement. Total cost about $300 w/ Lowe's CC discount.
A useful note o nwater heaters - the only difference in the grades/warranties in the anode rods they put in them; the longer-warranty ones have an extra one or it's made of tungsten to last longer. Everything else is teh same. You can save a tone of cash by just plannin gto replace the factory one is 4 years or so for about $60.
 
You can save a tone of cash by just plannin gto replace the factory one is 4 years or so for about $60.

I wonder if anybody ever replaces them. I did the one in the camper, but never would have thought to do the one in the house. My luck, it would fracture the tank. :lol:
 
wow, now you guys have me worried bout mine. Mine is also a gas and I am not exactly sure how old mine is...might need to check into that...how can you tell if it needs replacing? It heats fast and doesn't leak that I know of...
 
I wonder if anybody ever replaces them. I did the one in the camper, but never would have thought to do the one in the house. My luck, it would fracture the tank. :lol:
I'm quite sure the PO of our house didn't, the tank was only 7 years old and rusted to all hell, when I tried to pull the rod out it just fell apart.
I've never had a house & new tank long enough for it to matter, hopefully this will be my chance!
It's like you need a timer that goes off once every 3-5 years to remind you.
 
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